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but going by ph 2 seen as a 95 is a ph2 im thinking he means a mk2

nope, just drill the bolt out!

thats the biggest pile of sh*t i have read all morning! the oil temp sender is located just to the left of the oil filter as you look at it it will be a green plug that plugs into a white one, it just undos with a socket or a spanner (quite a big one but cant remember how big) the sender you are...

just take the arch liners out to do it you will need bonnet, bumper, wings headlights, indicators and hey presto! alternatively you can just change the bonnet and headlights and inidcators

yeah piece of piss to change valves you may as well so the stem seals whilst its in bits make sure you get new tensioners for the cambelt too, also id change the water pump whilst your there as they often pack up around cambelt time

Quote: Originally posted by yeecup on 12 September 2005 u sure mate? 110% mate ive just rebuilt my own valver engine (same to look at) so everything is fresh in the mind! and 5 hours is taking the piss!

you dont need to take the head off to fit cams mate! you just need to take off the rocker cover and cam cover so your half talking sh*t lol! but yes get them both done at once mate to save you paying twice!

is the linkage catching on the exhaust? if it has moved or if you have an aftermarket one this is possible

make sure you use the clio gearbox as the box on the r5 is electronic speedo so it wont work without major f**king about!

if you sand the rust out and have it treated with waxoyl it wont even come through ;)

i managed to get it all on my 1.2, you just meed to have the tracking done so suit

an rt rad is superior to a valver rad cos its bigger! thus more cooling area! that va;ver rad si smaller cos there is no room for it to be any bigger! so id stick to the standrad rad if i was you ;)

yip

possibly the carriers too and brake hoses

theres a guide on RSC mate, its easy to do especially seen as its been done once before!

change it mate. not something to f**k about with tbh, can cause a lot of damage and the crank wont turn making the car undriveable

why people lower the tits off of cars i will never know! the valver handles more than adequate on std height! lower doesnt always mean better! im gonna be going for uprated poundage springs on std height as against decking it which can also f**k up the handling if its not done right or even if...

was parked up at the mad party i was at, wondering if it was anyone off here, looked a nice tidy standard example

throttle positioning sensor, its the red thing on the throttle body, if you do take it off and clean it make sure it goes back on EXACTLY as it came off or it will need setting up on a renault diagnostic mate which wont be cheap, it is easy to do though

if you have small child hands yeah! i couldnt get my hand in to access mine

easiets way is to undo the slam panel and go in at the side of the rad, yeah its a pain and takes a bit of muscle but its the quickets way to do it

i have a crank out of a f7p if thats any good to you mate? it is from my siezed engine though but you can have it for f**k all if you come and remove it (the block is just sat on the drive with no sump on already) based in sheffield btw [Edited by Rich1.2 on 9/1/2005 12:42:00 AM]

either that or your caliper carrier bolts are loosening so check they are tight too mate

a kangoo box mate, speak to mark ritchspeed as he had one fitted to hit williams and iirc the ratios are about what you want ;)

your sidelights are the same bulb as the brake lights so theres nothing to worry about there

if you understand how braking works (ie friction) you will realise mate that unfortunately a pad that stops = a pad that creates dust, yes there are low dust pads out there but tbh not a lot of them work very well that are low dust

stay away from EBC pads they really are sh*t! loads of fade after a v.short period of time!

fill the mounts with polyurethane sealent, about 8quid for a tube but well worth it!

its only an anti roll bar bush, a few quid for the part mate just a bit of a b*****d to compress it bush to tighten the screw on

cool, thats the way im gonna change my sump as i have the new engine it but im waiting on the new sump arriving