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Almost certainly an engine mount from that description - best way to diagnose which one is to lift the bonnet on the car and have an assistant keep an eye on the mounts while you engage the clutch (make sure the handbrake is on). Watch for excessive movement as torque is applied.

Were the plugs correctly gapped? Are you sure the coil pack is brand new, and not just your old one transplanted to the new engine? Have you checked the resistance of the leads?

Ahh, in that case it would have been me ;)

What type of plugs did you fit? Did you gap them correctly when fitting them? Another thing you can check is the resistance of your HT leads, should all be around 2000 ohms. How new/old is your coil pack? Ben

My car, girlfriend driving :)

Yeah coil pack, paid £20 for a used one to fault find with. I had no idea it was this badly damaged until I took it off to fit the replacement.

On a FWD car the new tyres should be going on the front.

Front splitter?

So this was the reason my car was hesitating at 2k rpm :mad:

If you have 10mm spanner/socket and a suitable plug socket (13mm iirc) then it takes about 20 minutes to do all 4.

Yeah tihnk you did, sorry I didn't flash back but I've given up flashing CS's in and around Norwich as they never respond! ;)

Just saw a silver ph1 172 with Green wheels entering Brooke near Norwich. Anyone on here?

Primarily the spelling and the utter bs in the first sentence.

This description would be enough to have me going in the opposite direction tbh:

Yeah the first one will cover almost everything, if you can afford it get a smaller 3/8 wrench to cover the lower range and then the 60-300 1/2 drive to cover everything else.

The NGK-R plugs are fitted at the factory and will be what you get from a dealer. If your leads were wet then the plugs may have become slighly corroded. This happened to my car but I diagnosed the misfire to cylinder #3 and just changed that plug - runs fine now.

I almost couldn't tell the difference.

That's handy to know, you are in/near Norwich right? Ben

All the reviews are sounding good so far...

What sort of mpg were you achieving? The 80hp version is the most ecomonical of the three isn't it?

My fuel needle is all over the place unless I'm stationary and on a totally level piece of ground. Don't trust the fuel light one bit so try not to go into reserve tank if I can help it.

Considering a DCI as a commuting vehicle/shopping trolley. Are they reliable, if not what generally goes wrong and is it easy to repair? Are they as economical as the figures suggest? Ben

26 currently driving 2002 RS Cup 172, 2006 Audi A4 Avant 2.0TDI S-line. Also have a Renault 5 GT Turbo with Volvo engine conversion, don't drive it much genereally just take it apart put back together to try and get it working properly :eek:

That is the hub nut, no you don't need to remove it. Just pull give the wheels a pull on alternating sides top and bottom and it will eventually come free. Alternatively give the tyre a gentle tap in the same fashion with a rubber mallet.

i will take it off your hands for 1k :)

Save your money, no point pouring it into a 1.6, not the right platform in the first place imho.

I don't understand why you would remove the rear seats to save weight but leave the belts in place?

Good choice on the Cup, you will not regret it :)

Have you taken the car on a dyno since you did the mods?

Interesting...