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is there any reason (other than mileage) why you think it wouldn't make 2k, whole? breaking's hard work if you just want rid

sounds/looks as though it may be pushing the piston down the bore? is the servo rod adjustable and/or does the piston on the one you've taken off come back any further than that? (wondering if it's stuck) doesn't sound as though it's useable without messing about with new unions anyway...

would have thought the year alone would be ammo enough private sale? sounds well dodgy

lucky it didn't fire off any of the belts or bags by the sounds of it

lots it could be; as above, plus beam mounts, damper bushes, exhaust mounts, etc assume you've not got something rolling around in the boot?!

it'll affect the handling but shouldn't be dangerous providing you drive with that in mind

top of caliper:)

won't be able to save much at all by mailordering just need spanners for top nut and bottom bolt; could torque them back up to spec, although someone with a little experience'd be able to do them up appropriately without torque wrench

if that's to supply&fit one, don't bother - they're easy to DiY fit could be to supply&fit two, though? ed. although it won't be, sorry. just buy one and have it fitted at a local if you don't fancy it yourself

with the rears, you can get at the bleed screws without having to raise the back end, or remove the wheels make sure they're all free before starting though (the rears, in particular, have a tendency to have seized in and there's a danger of snapping them if they have)

yep, you'll need to bleed all four. Easibleeds are good if you can get them to seal ok. i'm on my second and have had to revert to the assistant method though, due to them degrading

Easibleed are about £15/Halfords; the seals go off though; so don't count on it a second time, after it's been sat in the garage/shed for 6months order doesn't matter much but should be nsr/osf/osr/nsf (diagonally split system and start furthest from master cylinder)

don't need to remove anything other than front wheels to be able to get at the front bleed nipples. best to make sure the nipples are all free before starting with ABS cars, it's important not to allow the fluid level in the res to drop below bottom of res, as that allows air into the m/c...

if you're going to bleed it, may as well change it all at the same time. that fluid's not particularly cheap - bit of a waste if you're just using it to top up an old/unknown fluid

do you know what's in it at the moment? if it's just for topping up and you've nothing fancy in there atm, i'd just buy a regular fluid from a motorfactors; or buy a couple of bottles of that and change the fluid

wheel balance, £10/wheel tracking, £30 ish i'd get the wheels balanced first, or try swapping backs onto fronts, see if that tells you anything

if you've an old empty plastic 5l oil can, cut the side out and use that - it's the right capacity and it's then easy to dispose of it into the new can when you've refilled (need a funnel, though)

don't know, although, for the effort involved in rebuilding them to a decent standard, i'd just buy a reconditioned one (or two). haven't used them, but have seen recommendations on here of a company called bigred, who do seal kits for £20ish, or pair of rear calipers for about £100 (which'll be...

don't need to take disc or carrier off; it might be quite stiff if the dust seal's gone - should rebuild it, really

Re: Dogbone Powerflex c**kup. Gutted an engineering workshop should be able to do it for beer money, or have something else suitable if you take bolt&bushes along? (loads of engineering shops around)

there's still droop in the trailing arms, though. probably simplest/safest to take wheel-to-arch measurements as well, and do some maths

sounds like a bad idea

i made best part of a grand when i broke mine for bits, although don't think you would out of that one needs a new nsf wing and, as Daniel, could be good, could be a moneypit not a massive amount of money for it, though

'should' check tracking whenever you disturb front susp/steering, although it probably changes as soon as it comes off the alignment ramps anyway, due to the deflection in rubber bushes. considering coming up with a cheap way of checking it myself on mine, as £30 every few months is getting boring

bunch you can do, but probably as well to take them out and deglaze them on wet&dry; get rid of all the dust/muck, clean disc and maybe file any lip. put it all back together with a little copper grease and ensure they're not too tight a fit in the carriers

jack thing's easiest, although don't use it to lift the car as you may bend something. the balljoint pin's tapered, so just need to engage taper so that you can undo nut (doesn't help that they're nylock)

top mine up about the same as yours - best to use coolant; water won't dilute it too much, although obv. will over time. it expands with heat, so false reading unless engine's cold

it's actually more like 3.4/ish, just to correct. thought it was less

think the std rack's 2.7 or 2.8; reasonably quick thought about this when i had my rack reconditioned, although the parking effort sounds a pain for a daily

can you get some moly grease in there? probably best contact KTEC