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just re-visiting; AUX belt has changed fine - seemed quite simple, although did manage to snap the arch liner, getting it off (gaffer tape = fixed)
sorry Paul, missed your reply (and your avatar/signature!). i didn't twig that it might have been yours - did see the '225 inside' sticker though...
the cat-to-system gasket is cheap enough from Renault (think it is about a fiver, as above); but you can save on the mani-to-cat joint kit, which is about £40-50 from Renault (or was).
do NorthWestPerformance (on here) do one for about a tenner or so?
i think a little side-to-side movement in the handbrake lever's normal. if you've needed to tighten the mountings, hopefully that's it
assuming you bled the brakes properly (it should have been noticeable if you hadn't), i'd say the front brake imbalance will be due to a caliper, and there are...
2Nm, according to the workshop manual
that's not much at all; i'd just tighten them until the bushes are under some sort of compression (without overdoing it), and make sure you've a similar amount of thread exposed on both (assuming you've renewed both dampers/top rubbers)
have you had a good look at the discs and pads yet? might not need doing. it's usually the rears that suffer, as they're underused compared with the fronts. track pads are expensive and you'll rarely see their benefit in a road car (unless you habitually drive around like your hair's on fire...
the mesh ring just slides over the lip on the end of the manifold - no welding req'd
if the manifold's actually intact, you just need a new joint kit (about £20 from somewhere like KTEC or NorthWestPerformance)
not working for me, but this might help (if you've not already found it): http://support.xbox.com/support/en/us/nxe/xboxlive/troubleshooting/NetworkHelp.aspx
get some pics up mate
you can fix more or less anything like this (it's just metalwork/fabrication, and welding) - i'm just thinking that, if it looks too much like hard work, you might struggle to find someone willing to have a go
worst case scenario is a s/h mani, fitted on the cheap i guess
pics would be good. it's probably repairable, but it's finding someone who's interested in making a good job of it that might be difficult (depends how knackered it is)
would have to have a look at it, but that just looks as though the bolts have snapped - or have the cups that the bolts sit in pulled through the manifold?
i'd say a decent welder would be able to sort that in-situ if the mani's damaged
ed. if you could take a good picture of the end of the...
got the 72k service to do and have ordered an AUX belt. just reading the workshop manual, it states that the tension should be checked with tool 'Mot. 1505'
just wondering if this is DIY-able. i don't want to chance it and would rather pay to have it done professionally if there's any doubt
depends what's broken, but it might be possible to have it tig welded rather than replaced. not sure how much room there is, but might be possible to do it in-situ if there is room
the std mani is stainless, so it could well be the OE one if it terminates at the back of the engine (the longer 182 mani terminates under the car)
ed. find out for sure which manifold is fitted, as that'll affect which cat you need
can you see two lambdas screwed in and connected? should be able to see them easily if they're there
from your description of the first box being by the handbrake lever, i'd say you've no cat - is it a noisy exhaust?
don't know if it's possible to get them through the test without a cat, so...