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it's probably 2k over its insurance valuation, but guess it depends upon just how tidy it is and how much anyone's willing to pay in premium. presumably you're planning on running it for a good while?
i'm playing with the shims at the moment and wonder if it's an idea to keep them in and file the pads for clearance if needed. got CLs at the mo and they rattle violently without the shims, which may (or may not) have contributed to the failures people on here have reported? apart from acting as...
would have guessed wheels and money as well. to be fair about the paint, lots of dealers will have the front end of younger cars of this type resprayed to sort any chips, so not necessarily been smacked
for the subframe/rack, i'd just go round and tighten everything - the rack's held to the subframe by a couple of clamps, and the subframe's got six mounting points - just check all of the bolts are tight
if it's related to the work you've had done to the driveshaft, could be the new shaft...
there are pics in fubar's suspension guide; http://www.cliosport.net/content/guides/fubar/spring_guide.pdf
you'll have the std top mounts if the aftermarket suspension used them (?)
mine failed the MoT on this the other day, but thankfully the bolts were intact. if the bolts had been busted, i'd probably have looked at welding new ones in from underneath the floor
didn't have a good look, bit doesn't look as though you can just weld the lever to the floor, as there's...
was wondering about greasy roads, but don't think it's been hot enough for long enough yet (not here, anyway)
some tyres are just noticeably poorer in the wet than the dry; could try reducing pressures, or attack speed:star:
http://www.k-tecracing.com/show_product.asp?id=2471&appid=2
from the drop-down box, it lists the three other mounts (other than the dogbone). you can save a little on the engine and upper gearbox by using GSF/ECP, etc. think the engine mount's more like £60 from ECP, although a pattern part
you want the purple ones for a Ph2
the KTEC uprated ones aren't that bad for the job they do, although i'd go with Fred's if the prospect of increased vibration's an issue (tried both setups myself)
easiest to take the fuel rail guard off. they'll stay warm for quite a while; doesn't sound unusual, although shouldn't be 'hot' after a couple of hours
looks as though the Subaru driver was either helped to the floor or fell out as someone opened the door; seems odd as people wander off as soon as he's out
try both, but the Sparco seat has a much better rep than the Corbeau. i've had Forzas and they were extremely uncomfortable, although that was when they were a relatively new seat and they've undoubtably been redesigned since
sounds as though there could be lots of possibilities, but check that the steering rack mounting bushes are v tight as well as, loose, they can make a 'cracking' noise, esp. whilst stationary