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i'd have offered to come over:D you're not having a lot of luck. i think the wheel nuts are 19mm - be easiest to get them off with a t-bar/ratchet and breaker bar if they're that tight

ok, if you've levered the arms back, that excludes the handbrake 1. take the pads out of the problem side 2. check the disc spins freely - if not, problem's the wheel bearing 3. check that the pad carrier slides from side-to-side smoothly - there are sliders inside the concertinaed rubber...

as that post, push the arms forward and unhook the cables to see if that'll allow the arms any further back. if it is the cables, they'll be gubbed inside and won't be allowing the handbrake arms to return fully - in effect, your handbrake's permanently on again, could be something else; but...

it's not actually in the Renault schedule at all and generally doesn't need doing until v high mileage in most cars. however.. the gearbox needs looking after in these and i'm planning on changing it every few years - easy job, although the oil's not all that cheap. needs 3L and should be 75/80...

cheapest way would be to buy a pattern balljoint, pattern track rod end and fit them yourself; retest; tracking afterwards

was it shaped, or just an o-ring? can buy o-rings at good motorfactors/B&Q etc

close that pipe off as best you can and get down the pub it's not a massive prob - just some extra work

might do that if there's ever a next time. shocked when it rang up at £30!

yeah, i'd renew that now can't see it being a cheap pipe from Renault as there's a flexi in it as well - try a breakers yard do NOT touch the brake pedal or the fluid res cap; you may as well crimp the pipe shut where it's snapped to prevent further fluid loss

what did you do to it?! going to need to renew that pipe, although you may be able to re-flare the end if it's snapped at the tip not the best of times; sorry

it's actually snapped?!

lol it'll be fine so long as you've not undone it

third picture - arm is at the bottom of the caliper. green pipe is your hydraulic line (ignore) best way to start is to jack up the back, handbrake off, wheels on. use a screwdriver/etc to carefully push the arms forward and unhook the cables (both sides), then check that the arms move...

it'll be obvious when you get under to have a look at how it's connected and how it works

i reckon it's most likely to be a handbrake problem - you can tell easily by levering the arms that the cables hook into at the calipers - lever them towards the back of the car - if they move and free the wheel off, you've a problem with either the cables or the mechanism within the caliper -...

seems fine, thankfully. still £50 lighter after new belt and bolt (bolt was a ridiculous £30; desperate times)

if you can get to the thread underneath the car, wire brush it and WD could also lock a couple of nuts onto thread under car and use those to wind it up if there's enough room. can't remember if you can get at it at all

on the hot side, jack it up and see if it's binding (it will be by sounds of it). start by levering the handbrake arm back to see if that frees the wheel. problem with cables/handbrake mech in caliper if it does (both fairly easy to fix)

have you reduced the rolling radius? hope that wasn't the M32!

thanks gents; hoping it'll be alright as it is only v slight

grand, thanks for that i might do the waterpump if it's still shrieking after this (original pump, on about 80k); is there room to pull it out against the shell, or do you have to muck about moving the engine?

i'd go for those; they're the same manufacturer as the ones i've had from ECP ones, but a little cheaper:)

no, you can use those (and that's all that's available if you buy from ECP/GSF/etc) - just that you get the nut/cup thing if you buy from Renault (it's not really a problem if there's any play in the nuts/cups you reuse). you'd save yourself a fair bit using those pattern parts

those are the two wearing components, although i think you also get the rubber coated cup that sits ontop of the turret if you buy the kit from Renault (they can spin & rattle, but not critical to the susp)

hi. just doing my AUX belt again after the adjustment bolt has snapped and am trying to assess the various pulleys none are noisy to spin, but there's a little end float on the PAS pump and a little lateral play in the waterpump - should these both be solid, or does that sound OK as these go...

CC/bank statements?

should, really, as it protects the plastic fuel tank

bloody hell! it'll need flatting and respraying. heard the warnings, but never seen it - blown a great patch of it away:dead:. was it a particularly powerful washer?

definitely worth contacting CL/supplier - may be there has been a bad batch as someone suggested when BrownBear's were posted on here

surely you'd know by now if you were missing even one of those bad boys? the one on the left doesn't even look as though it belongs to the car - just threaded rod with a couple of nuts locked together at one end?