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Slight typo from the scan.....
Stats for the braking system reads they have 239mm front discs (should be 259mm)
Everyone else noticed this too right lol!
Well add a bit of time on for inaccuracy, for the stop watch and speedo and itll be close to 10.2s
Only way to find out its true acceleration is up the strip hehe!
Have a look on the K-Tec and BBPT sites.
Ive got my eye on a 310mm big brake conversion! Could need them pretty soon as I got told my fronts were shagged on wednesday (I had guessed....)
7 days when it was at HillPower.
Probably only drive it 3days a week or summit. Work 6-7days a week and live within 1/2mile of both jobs so dont need the car for that......
Depends, how good a driver do you rate yourself as?
ABS will only really help you if you have no idea how to drive and just jump on the middle pedal and hope.......
In my opinion, a good driver shouldnt need it!
40-50mph in 4th Id expect (the gear they used for a rr power run)
Its probably very similar to 10K boost, and will probably work just as well.
I used 10K boost on my valver at 48K when I first bought it and it made a nice noticeable difference.
If your engine is in good nick, itll probably...
Cant help you out with your questions but Id give tinting the windows a second thought.
Police are cracking down quite hard on cars with too dark tints, and have new devices to measure the amount of light they let through.
If you do get tints, make sure theyre legal. My mates were 2% too...
Ive got some Infinity Kappa 6x9s in the back of my valver, sounded awesome until I blew one (ooops!)
Hopefully getting some Genesis 6x9 subs soon to replace them with.......
Yeah, a slightly lower front is best.
I had my springs fitting, then torsion bar lowered to match. After about a week of the springs settling down, the front was a nice couple of mm lower than the back.
The expensive part will be getting the torsion bar lowered unless you can do it yourself.....
Personally, I wouldnt go lower than about -30mm on standard shocks.