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The vvt system is emissions control only, activates at 1450rpm-6500rpm where it gives a drop in torque to make you change gear. You can gain a bit by a custom map, but the definitions aren't easily available, and there are a few traits to working with the stock ecu. I do a lot of stock ecu...

Rotate it a bit more, as it looks like it's trying to ride off the pulley

Just bolt it up, it'll either slide on or go right in which its on there far enough

Just use the pin to lock the crank. I've done them for years like this without issue. The dephaser seems to be sitting too far out to me, but that could be the pic.

I do 1 full rotation of the belt. Never had any issues myself.

Missed off the Walbro 255 fuel pump :)

It's a universal dash pod, so all warning lights are there, they just select which ones on the build

The strain of the new belt will happily cause a tensioner to fail, but not immediately in most cases. As Renault parts were fitted, pay the £80 fee for Renault to strip and diagnose it. I'm willing to bet they'll say the exact same Thing. But as mike has said, you don't touch anything on the...

Then it's the guy who did the belt fault. You must ALWAYS change the aux kit.

Megane

Easier to map in the future.

Not quite sure why you're disconnecting it. Never done that on a clutch chanhw

440cc if I remember correctly

Cam position/valve-piston contact is all relative. As the cams are now, providing the crank is at no1/4TDC there will be no contact. Crank locking pin goes in at No1 TDC.

Bit of help from @Stopherson today. He came up, and we got the pedal box positioned, seat roughly positioned, then attacked it in the form of making it lighter. Any unnecessary wiring removed (stereo/airbag/alarm etc)

Corrosion

It doesn't have a bulb in the first place.

There's an inspection hole on bell housing, with a few lines, one marked 0. This is TDC, there is a line on the flywheel, line this up :)

Was the full aux kit changed or just the aux belt?

Looks a lot better mate.

It won't be the pedal or body. Take it to @MicKPM at diamond, his bill will be less than it will be for you to just replace stuff on a punt.

Odd that it has a ph1 boot lid

Yes that's correct. Except I take it to the edges where the oil seals go rather than a 90 towards it. The sealant squashes round and spreads anyway so seals the bolt holes. Strainer plate (upper cover) just bolt it down, don't use sealant.

No, all I know is it's from a JC5-106

Anyone have the part numbers? Been searching for ages to no avail.

If it has, pop it back and I'll replace it under warranty.

They should be flush with the edge of the cover, don't worry, you're not the first to make these mistakes, and certainly won't be the last!

As for sealing it, 2mm thick bead along the outside edge, and around the spark plug holes.

Big D on the top of the cam. 2 things. That's too much sealant, that will end up in the sump, and block the pick up. And the cam shaft oil seals are too far in. They will piss oil out.

Just need the cams now, and hello 9000rpm!