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Vaseline or aerosol white grease should prevent them from corroding for a while once clean. can buy dielectric grease, but it's expensive and you'll never use it again

was going to suggest master cylinder. once there's a problem with the seals, they can be fine one minute, not-so-fine the next. v dangerous, obviously

is this straight-line braking? something's definitely not right if it is. and is it triggering the ABS? any steering involved, and it's probably just weight transfer (short wheel base, nose heavy)

was sure i'd read on here that some have had pattern systems fitted (?), so could be worth trying someone other than Kwikfit also, i thought the Renault backbox was more like £120ish. it's an easy DIY job, but you'll likely need a new clamp and hanger, which is may be where their £200 quote...

probably - the going rate for a new Stealth system seems to be about £350-400; i know that KTEC sell their backbox seperately for about £200 (or they used to, last time i checked), but then you've the potential hassle of getting it to fit (unless it's the same fitting as the Magnex at the...

it depends upon the rest of the system - you can make any other backbox fit, but it may require fabrication work to mate your new backbox to the system. is the rest of the system OE, and was it cut to fit the Magnex, do you know?

:)it's in the top right hand corner of the bay - beneath the washer fluid res

that's it. it's difficult to get a spanner on it, but see if it'll nip up at all. go steady, though, as you don't want to be snapping any pipe are you having to top up the fluid? mine leaks as well but, as WILL, doesn't seem to need topping up

just infront of the alternator mate. it's not all that easy to get at, and they have a reputation for leaking anyway. so long as you're not having to top the fluid up, i'd just try nipping it up

if it's a Clio2RS, it's just infront of the alternator:)

the Renault sump seal's a dowty washer, but one of these copper crush washers would do the job. ECP keep them (as do lots of others), but they may not be listed against the car - just need to be sure you get one with the correct internal diameter

you'd have to remove the plenum to check (re. your inlets question)

top spot! will probably use this in a bit

they're sometimes called chassis dynamometers tho i've always wondered if the reason a lot of manufacturer's engines don't make the book power is because they might rate them on engine dynos, where they're not driving all of the ancilliaries they are on a chassis dyno

Romania? somewhere with lots of gypsies, anyway thing is, he's obviously put those photos together for use on a forum, where he could presumably just have asked for suggestions. live&learn, i guess

toyed with the idea of using 10/40 every 6k, but 5/40 doesn't appear to be discolouring too badly at all every 12k

job done:S

have you guys had the pollen filter changed yet?

:dapprove:

guess the worst case scenario is clutch+gearbox (£££ - ££££). might just be a split hydraulic hose (££)

do you know if it's a hydraulic, or a cable clutch? the fluid could obv. be from the clutch if it's hydraulic

13cm on mine (original springs). they might settle a little, as said not really tried all that hard, but i've not found pattern 172Cup springs yet. i think the ones ECP do are for the std Sport the Renault springs are well over £100ea by the way - still can't believe they're that expensive

possibly a problem with the wiring/a connector somewhere, grounding and blowing the fuse. could be a 'mare to trace if it's that

got a couple of 7s, but no 2. you're welcome to a 7 if anyone else has a 2 the part number on the packet's 7711291177 and they were about £12/side 'iirc'

i'll have a look in a bit. it does seem to be the numbers that go missing. not had any trouble with the ones i've replaced - i'd suggest just cleaning/degreasing the paint before sticking them on, and being careful whilst washing

they are (self adhesive) i think they tend to go missing whilst washing the car, so just need to be careful not to blast them with a jetwash/etc what characters do you need? as i might have some spare (although i think only the letters - will have to check)

hope it's fine :)

loads of things you can check if it runs - HG, top/bottom end noises, oil leaks/burning, compression, oil pressure (if the car has a gauge). ideally want to drive it as well, to check power can't really do anything other than a visual inspection/spanner on crank if it's not running just a...

problem is that you're obviously extremely limited in what you can check if it's out of the car. take it you don't know the engine or the seller? could ask them for a limited guarantee, but i've been given those before and still been sold junk you can only weigh up the pros/cons of going to...

is it a runner? very dangerous unless you can hear it running and/or have reason to trust the seller. been there before lots of times and it's a gamble unless ^above