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i want to upgrade at bucket seats in the future with harnesses but dont want to fully loose the use of the back seats, now would it be possible to run the rear of the harnesses inbettwen the cracks in the back seats, (without putting wholes in them). i would then keep my standard seatbelts...
valid point but when i finished putting my rear one in ( with the collar) i noticed everytime i jack the back up from now on i will have to make sure the spring is seated properly when lowering it back down as they are shorter than standard and dont fit tight at all, surly removing the collar...
yes true, if you dont have one, go to your local garrage, pop the bonnent and ask them waz it off, then tighten it up by hand (not to tight) drive home normally and jobs a gooden
If you fit the ball joint yourself, £12 on the dot, cant remember the lambda sensor price but its a case of unplug, unscrew, rescrew, replug done.
at a guess givin the usual cost of a sensor (£40 ish) then £55 would be fair.
70/80 could get most tires really, i use toyo proxies T1R's and got them for £47.50 each, but some people rip them (mainly because they are cheap) but there are better tires for the money but its up to you.
O dear... if thats the case the drill must be withdrawn. i take it the shocker is fooked? is so there is another option, if you can get to it, file two big flat spots on the strud shaft from within the wheel arch, then get the mole grips on the flatspot and undo the bolt with a socket?
I have a prospeed zorst decatted and its load when booting it, but i also have a 90 degree silicon bend going onto a pipercross p7000 open cone and it roars!
Dear god! i got 4 T1rs fitted and balenced for £220!
when all four need doing i would give them a try, they would save you a wedge of money and are a very impressive tire.
btw how rounded is it? i used a spark plug socket, knocked the rubber bung out the middle, then put it on with an alan key through the middle, then got a spanner on top of the spark plug socket?
thats good to hear, if we call first to 24000 miles or first to have them on 2 years. this is a good guage of build quality.
you are 16% there so hopfully in a year or so this thread will be reopened with someone saying how there raceland coilovers are still going strong and all the haters who...
^^^ totally agree.
the front has so much more travel its insane, if i lowered it fully the wheel would come through the bonnet!
but yes for handling they are the best value for money imo, only test now is to see how long they last before problems occur.... if problems occur, if they dont go...
If its rounded you pretty much left with a couple of options.
1. cry
2. attack it with a drill! if you try and go in though the alan key hole as a guide but it will be hardened steel so will need be carful, dont know if anyone else has an idea?
omg. cannot beleive people can fork this off on people and tell them all is fine, we should arm the specialists with machine guns made entirly of the cambelt renault specialist locking tools melted down and send them on a killing spre against these bandits. (of the bum variaty)
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Renault-Clio-172-182-F4P-Performance-camshafts-272-NEW_W0QQitemZ220571451112QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item335b153ee8
cant be any good for that money surely?
had mine on over 300 miles now, and i love um, took some bends a bit harder than i usually would and love the lack of body roll. Will take some pictures this weekend when me and ben finish some more work on it n give it a clean.
You shouldnt need a 4 channel amp if your only running one sub? my setup is front and rear door speakers which are alpine and kept dash tweeters, 3000 watt sub and amp and decent 60watt x 4 head unit.