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Most likely its a bit too tight to the bumper, assuming it has decent near solid exhaust mounts anyway.
Get some pics up of how close it sits, and ideally the mounts too.
Ages ago, I refurbed and painted two of my alloys in anthracite, Never got around to doing the other two, not enough time. However, now doubting my choice.... What does CS think?
I know the rear plate isn't straight, Its Velcroed on, Just washed the car and didn't line it up again.
I hope they don't call them selves Auto electricians. If I'd found one bit of dodgy wiring on a car, I'd then go checking the rest out, and rectify it all!
Hopefully, if they agree to sort it, they do a decent job, or else find yourself a decent local auto electrican (I'd have offered my...
As I posted a while ago, I bought a huge 3inch exhaust tip, Well finally got to fit it all today!
First up, what the old setup was like, Bodged together quickly when I cut the backbox off a few months ago.
Cut the old downward pointing tip off, then marked the bumper using a 182 exhaust trim...
That is something I sometimes think about it, I do sometimes just touch the brake pedal so the lights come on, on a motorbike I'd just drag the rear brake a tiny bit.
One other thing, did you check the bolt lengh? too long and it could have hit the hub, and thus fucked it that way.
But if all the bolts are the same lengh, its unlikely, but worth a shot. Hopefully dan will sort it!
No doubt hitting the heatshield.
As you've paid a garage to do it, take it back and calmly explain theres a loud clattering noise that You think is a heatshield.
They may find, that its infact nothing to do with them, and its just rotted out (the heatshield!) but always worth a shot.
Yeah, Mine works now, It will work once you have enabled it in the engine ECU, But not display on the dials until you program it as per this thread.
I should point out, I found the key to doing it, which I forgot to add to this thread.
What I did was connect clip as normal, ign on, get it to...
Nope that's how they are meant to be, silver bit tidys them up, putting it under the strut would make the car slightly higher too.
That would be good, pm me your PayPal.
Mine already has the complete 172 front setup, wider track, so thus fills the arches better, and as part of that you have to fit the 172 hubs. You need to do the whole lot, shocks, hubs, wishbones, ARB, driveshafts and brakes (due to the hubs)
Cheers dude.
Full beam as it gives me chance to paint it all etc.
You've said that before lol, I like the grey, I do also the silver I admit but we'll see.
I am quite happy with it, Needs a few more bits before I'm perfectly happy with it, but its a huge change from the standard car I...
The big nipple on the inlet, needs to go to the pipe left off on the bulkhead. The other nipple, I assume is on the front of the inlet? That needs blanking unless you have the valve thingy.
Assuming the head unit has the possibility of steering wheel controls, you'll just need a connects 2 (Clio specific) interface and then a suitable patch lead. eBay search it.
And thanks to the man above... Look what I just found. Page 67...
-put just the 1st step of key (the radio lights up), especially PAS contact!
-disconnect the mass of the battery 10 seconds
-reconnect the battery ground
-launch CLIP
-make [ECU testing] as usual
-return on 'Multiplex network'...
Will have a lookie.
I now have it working, its programmed in the engine ECU, but not the dials, so thus can't see speed, which I find annoying after constantly driving 1*2's with it.
Heres what Clip says when you try to program dials...
Luckily it doesn't fall apart on the road, but everything comes apart easily yeah! Even when I first started playing with it, never had a problem with it.
Cheers buddy :)
Right, Few bits to update...
Sunday morning I got up early, as Dr Jekyll was coming round with his PH1, So made time to...
You need front wings and the skirts too.
You'll want wheel spacers, to make the wheels look right, and the front arch liners, as the wings are wider, the old arch liners won't fit.