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Only reason for the delay would be if it's an empty hose, where you have to wait for the water to come through. Also don't forget if the hose was used with normal water first, it'll take a few seconds for Di water to purge through before your PPM level drops. Using those aqua stop connectors...

And Jim.

Pure Motorsport used to sell them... Or @NorthloopCup might know.

Quaife are releasing a diff for these soon.

Same as you would with AR1 really. Around 25 minimum really otherwise you'll risk damaging the sidewalls in the first few minutes as they warm up and get to operating pressure.

This. Bearing material will be everywhere now. Will need oil pump cleaning out, if not a new one tbh.

Yes it is him. Very sad news indeed.

Doesn't have one, the ph2 172 and 182 fuel is regulated at the pump with no return. Old feature left over from the ph1 172.

True.

https://www.lockingwheelnutkeys.co.uk/ Used those before for a replacement on my dad's Ford. Sent them pictures and one turned up and fitted perfectly. Wasn't the cheapest at around £50 though.

I used to get a noise like that too with Koni adjustable shocks. Never managed to cure it. Now have BC's. It almost sounds like the threaded part of the damper rod is hitting the hole which it passed through into the top mount bush.

Yeah they tend to quieten down when the pedal is pressed.

Sounds like clutch release bearing.

RR is the longest line, so that's usually the first. Each is paired with the opposite corner. You just select each one manually as you go, it doesn't move on to the next one for you.

Bleed all 4 corners as well, not just the rears.

There shouldn't be any air in the pump as long as you didn't let the system drain. Bleeding the brakes using the pressure bleeder in combination with pumping the pedal should do it.

I thought it just needed a new alternator and battery.

Worth changing your key fob battery if you've never changed it.

10% off all Milwaukee stuff on PowerToolMate with MIL10

It's just surface rust, could be sorted if you can be arsed spending and grand getting both quarters sprayed 😅

Need a Rayon glass polishing disc on a machine with Carpro Ceriglass. Might not get everything out though.

How 😂

Mine is only a few months old and the bits in the bottom rows have surface rust too. Need a spray with wd40 I think to stop them rusting over.

Might be a bit better with more dampening control.

Abs faults are usually self clearing once the thing in question has been fixed. Odd that nothing shown up on a decent scanner 🤔

If you have access to a half decent scanner, it will show abs faults. Cheap readers don't read abs for some reason.

Probably an abs sensor that's gone, I've had a couple over the years go with the same fault. The brake switch would normally just show serv and esp light. Switch needs adjusting as Daz says. The plunger is a ratcheting type, can push it in click by click and test it as you go.

I've got one of these. https://www.powertoolmate.co.uk/electrical-lighting/lighting/unilite-slr-500-led-rechargeable-folding-work-light-500-lumens.htm Close to your budget and is magnetic and has a hook to hang it on things.

That sounds about right from what i remember.

Same. One will be fuel line and the other for the carbon cannister system.