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These are meant to be good. Pretty sure Alex from AW Autoworks recommended these. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251728117418

I thought new pumps from Renault were NLA now? Pretty sure my guy who did mine in 2017 when it went pop like yours said so anyway.

5W-30! Bit thin that mate :oops:

I just use Tripple for chrome trim now, works well for that.

Damn that PS4 worked? 😂

I was only trying to help @Sidnancy out seeing as he bought 5L 😂 But i'd give it a try if you sent me a bit :unsure:

Fair Nah i'm in Warrington 😅

How much for the samples?

Won't be laughing when he's building a decking on Mount Everest with his cordless saw 😂

Unfortunately they're Chinese shite 😏 I've had their 3 ton one for years and it's been solid, but recently it has started creaking now and again.

How much have you spent so far? Are you willing to f**k it off and get it mapped properly 😂

The Bilt Hamber Korrosol is £13 for 1L, Iron X is £18 :unsure:

Is it definitely oil?

+1 for Smart Wheels. Wear gloves when using it though, it's about the only thing that really gets to my skin for some reason.

Berry Blast :love:

Oil in the water is definitely not normal.

Try either those heatshrink solder butt connectors or if you have the right crimp tool, the heatshrink crimp butt connectors. They give a solid join and are waterproof once shrunk down. Arguably better than plain solder and heatshrink, as the solder usually cracks over time with vibration.

Apologies, standard compression ratio is 11.2

Not really, as I mentioned standard compression ratio is about the same anyway. You would only want lower compression on a turbo setup to avoid detonation (knock).

Ahh yeah. Go with crank sensor first, as it needs that to even start and tell the fuel pump to send fuel. Temp sensor only comes into it when the ECU is controling the fueling on cold start (open loop I think)

You want high comp for NA. Standard compression is in the 12:1 range.

It shouldn't start with the crank sensor removed 🤔😂

SNR are fine.

Try jacking the car up and turning the steering using the wheels from side to side. Should be able to feel something if there's a problem. New rack would be a subframe off job.

Yeah, knackered bearings inside them would.

Front camber is out a bit, it could be that causing the pulling. However the knocking might be suspension top mounts, the bearing inside.

Fluid boiling over is pretty common on track. If you think there's air, remove the cap and go from lock to lock a dozen times or so to help bleed any out. Not sure about the pulling on right turns though :unsure: are you on standard suspension? Have you got a print out of your current alignment?

I might be, not been on there in years haha

There's always next week 😂

Looks like low voltage.