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Never done one tbh. What’s the other side look like?

I’ve seen worse. Take the rubber off and drop in a bucket of DEOX-C for a week. That’ll definitely clean up.

Never actually measured it up, to be honest, but this is mine on factory CUP springs and dampers, with 16" Turninis and 205/45/16 Michelin PS3 tyres. All stock bushes - pretty much factory specification. When properly set up with everything standard and in good condition, they are incredibly...

Good to know you can still get them. I never got to the dealer but glad you got it sorted.

I’m popping into my local dealer tomorrow for some oil, so I’ll ask them while I’m there for you.

NLA from Nissan. Possibly still at Renault.

Catalogue data - https://www.restagraf.com/en/1943-u-nut-clip-o-42-mm-wheel-housing-cover.html I'll check with our parts as we may be able to source them.

Part No - 7703046116. Part of the inner liner. PANEL NUT 4.2 C2 This might work - https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/7703046116 or any panel nut with a 4.2 mm thread diameter.

4,3,2,1 - 1 being nearest to the flywheel

Correct!

My first track toy had the 1st gen PMS gear shifter. Absolutely horrible. All you hear on camera was the death rattle. My last car had the new carbon shifter and it was superb. No rattling and smooth as silk.

When I changed my injectors, I hadn’t pushed one of the connectors on properly - usually hear a click - and it sounded exactly like that. Pushed it on properly and it was perfect. So as a complete internet guess maybe faulty injector, although no engine light suggests it might be ignition...

That looks nice, but will probably melt or worse, set on fire. Designed for door trims. I must have had 3 sets of original exhaust trims over 7 years of ownership. My biggest issue is the PMS exhaust tips expand, a lot, and melt them. It’s partly why I opted for 3” rolled tips over the 3.5”...

Those will be great. Just replaced all mine with PS3, but I’ll definitely be going down this route when the time comes.

During my resto, the rear nearside bolt on my subframe was so badly mangled, I ended up taking the engine out - well that was my excuse anyway. It gave me better access. You should be able to grind the head off the rear bolts from underneath. The fronts are inside the subframes iirc so more...

Do it!

Yes disconnect it. You can move the butterfly plate yes. Just go steady.

I always fancied getting new ones for mine, but the only option was Carbon types and they're a fortune. If you can't rescue yours, this is worth doing and is very cheap. This is a close-up but anybody who walks up to the car and looks around it still hasn't noticed they're not original trims...

As above, looks spot on. Nice and clean under there 👌

I just love the wheels on this little car :love:

I used to go back and forth to my local circuit in my 182 which had a Gripper fitted by Mark. It’s a 60 mile journey there and back. They’re fine but just a bit too mechanical (noisy) for everyday use. And as Mark says, they need servicing. LSD for road use 💯

Good result that considering it wasn’t the best condition. @NickReilly063 right now…

It’s amazing how many little bits need replacing. I’ve been buying old NLA parts that are nigh on impossible to find now and restoring them, ready to fit.

Took her out for a blast to the garden centre after a month sat idle - fell back in love pretty sharpish.

Race-suit incoming?

Seller: Dentist72 - Somebody is getting their teeth taken out 🤣

Looking more like a track car these days. Headlamp blanks look ace. Are you running valve marker stickers on your wheels?

It depends how far you want to go. I assume you’re changing the PAS pump? When are the timing belts due? PAS is a strange one as they generally go gradually over time. Worth changing with a decent refurbished one. There’s a company on eBay that does an exchange. I’d do the following...