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Yeah mate, they're M7 x 45mm 10.9 grade cap head screws.

R-Sport They supply all the Cup Racer stuff. These were used on the MK3 Clio racers but they fit the 172/182 as well. 77 11 051 262 £ 1.46 plus vat each 77 03 055 031 £ 1.95 plus vat each 77 11 162 626 £ 70.65 plus vat each Shipping would be £ 10.00 plus vat.

Tbh it's not worth the hassle unless you have all the tools, pullers, press, dial indicator for measuring bearing preload. Send it to @NorthloopCup and he'll do it for you.

If you're having the belts done, fit one of these to help prevent aux belt failures taking out your cam belt. For the sake of £105.

Yeah, ideally you wouldn't have any coating in the tapered seat where the bolt head sits.

Very good point that. No powdercoat between the beam and stub axle faces.

Because GTA 6 isn't out? 😂

Yeah all good, as long as you use high tensile 10.9/12.9 grade stuff and torque to 30nm and 60nm respectively.

Fine to run longer bolts. There's nothing really back there until you hit the shock absorber 😂

Worth trying another card if you have one. If that doesn't work, send it back.

Hmm.... Any error codes?

Cutting out when revving sounds like a sensor issue. Possibly the crank sensor.

That sounds right. The 14v will be the power and the other will be the 0-5v reference that's sent to and from the ECU.

Something like a -6AN size hose should be adequate.

A bit of wood on the jack will help spread the load. Support it on the side closest to the mount.

I've been in that car on track and it's really well prepared. While it may not be worth quite that much to most of us, it's certainly had the time and money put into it over the years. It's definitely a £5k plus car, no questions asked.

Good luck getting the sensor out from the top. Ideally need to remove the hub and smash it out from underneath. Don't worry about the bolt, the new sensor won't move anywhere.

Chances are they're not magnetic which means they weren't picked up by the magnet inside the box. It also means it's likely to be synchros in that case because they're brass.

What is it with powdercoaters recently? A mate is having issues with a place he uses, similar cracking to yours actually.

Tried the RSTuner brake bleed function out for the first time on @Niall 182. It could have told us that the left and right calipers were as you look from the front... When it said Rear Right, you would assume it meant driver's side but it's actually the passenger side lol. I now know why it...

Caught me by surprise the first time 😅

75Nm according to the specs 😂 If you go full trigger it'll give a bit of a kick at the end and then cut the power.

The newer ratchets are pretty powerful. I broke a T40 torx bit with one when it reached its torque cut off 😂

What next?

No worries.

Air will find a way past if there are any sealing issues. These are the typical things you'll see during the test if there's a problem. Intake valve : Air whistling out of the intake, carburetor or throttle body indicates a leak at the intake valve. Exhaust valve : Air heard hissing out of...

You need to do a leakdown test as I mentioned in a previous post. It uses compressed air and forces it into the cylinder. Any air leak would be heard as a hissing air sound from a particular area.

If it drives fine then the tester must off because it wouldn't run very well at all with those compression numbers.

Mine is just the plastic cooling fan at the back making a ticking sound. No anvil movement at all.

That doesn't sound as bad as the other one. I'll check mine, although it's a different model to yours.