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The selectable maps and driver Aids in the car sound proper cool.
It looks absolutely bang on too.
But what is flat-foot shifting and how does it and downshift rev-matching work on a manual car? Is the first one just keeping the throttle pinned while changing gear?
I assume there's a fair few painters on here, since we've recently started doing 'proper' spray painting in work, I've started reading up on how to get proper automotive finishes, what effects orange peel, how to spray metallic and pearl etc.
This is complete overkill for work as we literally...
The more coats the merrier iirc.
Build up the coats with lightish passes (close coats) and do the last one a little heavier and slower to allow the solvents to 'flatten' the finish. I've not used plastidip properly but from what I've read you do need to build up the coats to make it peel able...
Autosmart tardis or carpro tar X
Followed by iron X
Always before claying.
You may need to agitate the stubborn tar spots and give another application before re jet washing.
And in between tar remover and clay, wash the car again so the clay doesn't get dissolved by left over tar remover...
See I'm the opposite, I find these style shoes to be ace when worn in
The sole isn't as thick as they look and the fat front part helps with blipping the throttle without twisting your leg too much.
In case what?
Out of those three I like the one from Leicester because projector lights.
But, why do you specifically want a cup?
Why not a standard car with the cup suspension, wheels and seats?
I wouldn't recommend sc autos from what I've read.
It seems they shafted a few people on the 197 forum then closed the company and reopened with a new name after being threatened with court action.
The description! Flol!
Whopper
"My modification skill is very high"
"My first house has four bedrooms"
Who in their right mind believes those two points belong in an advert?
Mainly for looks. But wouldn't the increased track help on track?
My plan was to do a few laps without them then a few with them to see if I could
Should we do a group buy on them?
I think you misunderstood.
The 1.6 with the engine code k4m is 110bhp in the standard road car. But in the s1600 rally car it's been modified to make 220bhp
I found this thread for some reading
http://www.cliosport.net/threads/1-6-16v-k4m-power-help.582699/
Would not recommend this.
If you put the grooves in the wrong place it can weaken the disc.
They have to sit in between the vent vains, and aren't they usually a curve rather than straight?
Same goes for drilling them.
No, but you seem dead set on it lol.
And I know how you feel, so if you can get reasonable insurance on it and have a 2005 1*2 for less than a grand (after selling the 172 bits) then go nuts lol, you shouldn't lose too much on it come sale time.
Note that very few people will want a mega...
Mine was 1.4 16v too.
Buy this
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201846199731
Spend a few weekends with mates stripping everything out of it and put it all into your car.
Not just the engine and gear box. Strip the axles and sub frame off yours, remove the engine and gearbox, steering rack and...
Sorry, I could be wrong but I think the engines are the same block with different heads and strokes which affect the displacement. You could look into changing the components to give you the extra 200cc and then look into what made them produce 200bhp.
But again, that'd be almost a much work...
This was my old car.
I Put loads of time and effort into making it look like that, I wanted power so wasted £200 on an induction kit, I wanted better handling so fitted coilovers (these I'd actually recommend as you can sell on), I wanted it to sound better so I put a monster exhaust on...
Ah good on you.
But you can't, I tried. Unless you throw mega money at it, you can't get more power. That goes for most n/a engines.
If you are dead set on chasing power. The s1600 rally cars use the 1.6 k4m engine which I'm sure is essentially the same as your 1.4 k4j.
They got 220bhp...