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correct, ph2 dash is driven off the ECU via CAN Ph1 is direct drive from the missing wire...

The cam advances from its "OFF" state 16 degrees (we are led to believe) to the "power" position. it does this at about 1800 rpm and above circa 40% load (although I cant be 100% of the exact details, - it can easily be checked with our diagnostic kit) when we fit aftermarket managment we...

when you say "going"... can you elaborate? mechanical failure of electronic? Andy

we have 10 sets in stock if you need them.

there are other factors that contribute to the 5k kick you describe. EURO 4 emmisons keep the car at lambda 1 for a fair time, circa 4k iirc.. and then its allowed to goto the fueling to get max power...... and inline with peak VE of the engine gives a great kick.. its why when you map them...

its now sold, after a little run of tweaks for the new owner.

Was your standard system made from titanium? The standard 182 system is just about the heaviest available. David.

its pretty custom... to say the least... and prices vary depending on application and spec. if you would like more info on an engine build to that level or even a std one please drop me a line andy@k-tecracing.com Andy

As Danny says the AFR looks very good, going slightyly rich at peak (which is usual for a road car)

trouble is the std ECU uses MAP sensor for load measuring. ITB's typically use throttle angle.. its not easy to get them to work on MAP, and its nowhere near as direct as throttle angle anyhow.

neil, you have MSN

it was an engine I built..... no, that was BenP's old engine.... this engine has a new home soon in the best Mk1 restoration I have seen

Ben I would reconsider where the oil catch tank is fitted the casting on the cam cover is really weak and with that moment and weight of the tank it will more than likely break after a few knocks on the road. Andy

Just found this pic of a build we did..... Its one of my favourites. Andy

what management is that on?

sounds like it "may" be lambda sensor. you need to get to a garage with decent diagnostic software to see what faults are recorded. andy

probably the egg shaped breather seal under the plenum also does this if the throttle body is not connected correctly (electical plug) maybe inlet seal (gasket). get some break cleaner and spray little amounts near the joins, if it stutters etc then there is your leak. Andy

there is no set value, its completly dependant on fuel, the engine, compression etc etc i would strongly advise NOT to play with it unless you know what your doing as you will damage your engine. too much advance (and you still may not be able to hear it from outside the car) and you will...

correct, re inlet finish. A matt finish is needed to best results

that is exactly what we do, and its a well made point we need to add that to the description. You can see from the product photo that the rework is carried down the entire length of the inlet.

http://www.k-tecracing.com/show_product.asp?id=2907

We have them in stock if you need them Andy

Hi Guys, The thumb grips are still very much a work in progress, hand making GRP inserts to fit exactly each time is somewhat tricky, and hence they are not on general release on the website. We are perfecting them and released some at a reduced cost to CS members only as they are a great...

Polo I think... andy

thats what I thought, you may want to turn off at higher rpm on mild cams

to acheive what fred? Andy

no, its a set advance or r****d

looks like wheelspin

Sorry guys but no further discounts will be available on the coilovers, Cliosport members already get them for £249+vat. David.