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It has to be the oil. That's the only thing actually heating up really.....
Unless the gearbox itself is fubared??
strange one. Checked the bushes on the linkage under the box?
Re: Cup TT ??
Forgot to mention stu. I've done a complete pin out of my entire AGU engine loom. I don't know what loom your using, but this may be helpful in the future.
http://www.mark-one.co.uk/downloads/AGU_EngineLoom.xls
I'm trying to work out the water route....having a big of trouble...
not necessarily. If you can definitely hear something from the right, then try to identify whether it's front or rear and get it changed.
Concequences of leaving a dodgy bearing vary from: just noise>siezed bearing>loosing a wheel at speed.
Sometimes you can wiggle them, sometimes they are just...
Re: Cup TT ??
hope the boost piping works out ok with the pickup that side. Which side of the engine are you gonna come round off the turbo? N/S as normal? or try and do it like the stock TT and go O/S?
4.9 litre V8 = 2.45 litres per bank meaning it should spool like a volvo T5 running a single GT35.
When they eventually come on boost it's going to be insane. :eek:
They read the CO2 from the back of the exhaust. It doesent matter what the car thinks the emissions are.
Have you bought a phase 1 cat to go on a phase 2? do they even fit?
FYI My MOT has been passed with the second lambda unplugged.
my advice would be to stick a trolley jack, preferably with a rubber saddle, underneath the sump on the same side as the mount. Just gently take the strain off the mount and then undo and remove. Remember the engine mount bolts require specific torque, so a torque wrench is preferable.
It's not actually a garrett is it? It's just a T04E copy
That's bigger than most of the turbos people use of 1*2s, but with a good manifold it will spool ok. The off the shelf conversions use awful log cast manifolds.
If you get it working, you'll easily have enough power capability to pop a...
Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]
I'm sure welding the column in place will be solid. For me it's just the flexibility. Nothing on a car should really be permantantly fixed. Say you wanted to switch to a manual column for some reason, or something wore loose in your current...
they are not properly hubcentric. There is nothing for the wheel to sit on there. Not to mention the centre bore is not correct for a renault (60.1) so they'd be extremely dangerous on a clio.
With the correct centre bore they are still a bit shady. No substitute for proper hubcentrics. I'd...
I've heard quotes ranging massively. Do you want the entire shell stripped bare then the whole thing spraying? or are you happy to still have a black engine bay/door shuts etc? You can start to see why prices vary