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Re: Boosted BlackGold Project - F4rT content.
Been working on mine today and had a good look for where your manifold could run but can't quite picture what route the down pipe can take. Will be keeping a close eye on this one!
If you go the cast manifold route let me know if you need any help...
Re: Boosted BlackGold Project - F4rT content.
I use a ceramic coated down pipe so that should help the temps on the very close master cylinder. Brake lines are behind some nimbus so and aren't actually that close so should be fine.
Re: Boosted BlackGold Project - F4rT content.
My oil return is to the sump but is non standard.
The loom is custom too for an adaptronic ecu. Need an additional coolant temp sensor but as I'm going piggy back the other sensors will all be off the OE management.
Re: Boosted BlackGold Project - F4rT content.
Was the custom manifold made from a cut up and welded up 172 manifold? That's what I'm considdering doing.
Where is the oil return for the turbo on your block?
Should be a good project this.
If it is very stubborn, slacken off the bolt opposite and tighten the two closest. Hit a socket on that is very tight and then use an impact gun rather than a breaker bar or such like. The vibration helps loosen it.
You have gone for max caster with no camber. Camber can be added through camber bolts or as on my KW's they have camber adjustment on them anyway.
Seriously though, don't just copy someone and say their's is at the 6 o'clock position so that will do. Get them set up professionally!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-PC-BROKEN-SCREW-EXTRACTOR-SET-STUD-REMOVER-EASY-OUTS-/380445889293?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item589457930d#ht_1669wt_1030
Won't make a difference. Centre punch, pilot hole, wind the bugger out, done!
You have set it just now to maximum negative camber with standard caster.
You would be better getting them set up professionally as they are epic if done correctly.
They either come for coilovers or dampers. Doesn't matter which type of coilover.
Well done mate!
What spec is your car and what safety mods do you have. I'm thinking about going for a blast next year but want to know what I have to do to get it ready.
Glad you're sorted mate.
There are lots of simple DIY maintenance you can do to keep your brakes tip top and don't require a great deal of mechanical knowledge. Just make sure you are confident enough to not make an arse of it and put it back together the same way it comes off.
Re: 172 Cup track toy!
Forgot to add, still got new plugs to fit and I'm going to get some Magnecor KV85 leads to finish off with.
Also bought an OMP cage this week but it won't be fitted until the winter. Just need to get this thing running!
Re: 172 Cup track toy!
Been meaning to update for a while but I'm lazy! lol
Got the battery mounted and wired up through a megafuse next to the battery and a kill switch on the dash. I used 35mm cable for the live and 25mm cable for the negative. The kill switch and stereo hole cover are a...
Round the outer edge of the pad, the bit that would be to the outside of the disc. When you've got them out make sure the pad face isn't glazed by giving it a rub with some coarse emery paper. Do not breath the dust in so wear a dust mask!
Like the look of the black superleggera. Powder coated or painted?
Do you have oz spigot rings for them and if so where did you get them? I need one as it's got lst somewhere.
Cheers
No problem mate.
Never tried them but from what I hear EBC stuff is poor. Less dust probable means they will wear the disc faster anyway. Lol
I'd just go for standard.
The squealing will more than likely be a lip that has formed on the edge of the pad on the outside of the disc. Even when you're not pressing the brake pedal the pad and disc are still touching with no pressure so the pad still vibrates with the friction.