Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
Well I haven't updated this in a while so here goes after a few jobs on the car are finally finished.
Last weekend I rewrapped the loom for the dash which turned out rather well after it being my first full loom wrap. Shame I didn't do a job like this on my dci.
I then fitted the epas column...
Today I was changing the turbo on my DCI and the o ring for the oil feed is ruined, drained oil all over the road and engine.....brilliant.
Wonder if anyone can tell me if the o ring which goes on the end of part 1 is available separately as I can't even see it on the schematic.
part numbers...
Crikey^ hope that chap was okay.
A buddy of mine used to race in the abarth 500 series and the sponsorship was the business his family run. The additional sponsorship they had on the car was clearly their suppliers trying to maintain a good relationship with their clients but realistically it...
I see what you mean but I suppose it's about a small improvement. The front is of course a different matter. TBH I can't say I noticed braided lines that much.
Yeah that's it. N/S. Easiest to take the bumper off and the headlight iirc. Leave the purge valve plugged in to stop a fault light coming up.
You need to block one of the lines to the inlet and put a fuel tank breather on the one that goes to the tank so it doesn't build up pressure with...
If you guys are down at brands on the 16th I might pop along as it's only ten mins from me. Happy to lend a mechanical hand if you need one at all as well.
Acoustic valve, tar on the inside of the rear 1/4 panels. Excess loom. Rear wiper. 1 extra horn you don't need. Some of that isn't significant but it all adds up. Leave in the elec windows as the windy ones aren't that different and difficult to get hold of.
I'm slowly redoing everything on the cup that I had on my 182.
rear arb
braided lines
rc5+ front pads and brembo HC front discs
polybush dogbone
decent exhaust with decat
solid engine mount
EPAS
decent air filter set up
yanoo stiff shift
spacers
lowered on something
ttv flywheel
98ron map...
Yeah, hunter kit jolly good if used properly. Regardless of whether the rear is a bit on the wiff he should be able to compensate for it on the front to make the wheel dead straight.
The wires to the pretensioner run directly from the airbag ecu to the seat so you'd be able to trace the wires anyway. If you just put the two wires together that won't work as the resistance won't be in range. The resistor should work though. If you can disable it, you need to turn the ignition...
Evening chaps.
My turbo is in dire need of rebuilding. I've got a couple of spares laying around which I'm looking to rebuilt and then swap over for my existing one.
Being diesel these turbos are full of soot deposits. I can scrape quite a lot of it out but want to make the housing totally soot...
Now the summer is on the way I want to get the A/C on the DCI sorted. At the moment the system has no pressure but when I hit the A/C button on the climate control the pump doesn't kick in. Is this because there is no pressure in the system? I don't want to get the system pressured up and then...
You're just pro! I didn't actually use them until I knew I made an incorrect snip. I then used them to wire up the EPAS warning light on the dash and make sure the EPAS was on the correct fuse in the box. Simples.
I have all the wiring diagrams for the ph2. I've recently stripped my dash loom and everything is working perfectly. The best bet is to know what each plug is, trace it back through the loom, use the wiring diagrams and remove the unneeded wiring . The canbus network are green wires and they all...
You can upgrade to the bottom ones, plug and play but your mileage is stored in your clocks so try and get clocks with slighty higher mileage and then change your clocks when they match.
or do as I have and lose 5800 miles from your car
No difference other than the sticky texture on the climate, radio, hazard surround and vent surround.
The b pillar trims do change slightly on some of them but I can't remember which ones.
So I think this project stops here really. I was thinking about doing a 106bhp and k9k conversion with 6 speed box but after adding up what I've spent on this car it's totally ridiculous. Over 3k in just mods, oh my, on a slow french diesel.....bugger.
Of course I'll update the thread with...
If you do have it then all you have to do is add a wire from the bulkhead connector to the fusebox and then it's also ignition controlled without any splicing. I'll take some piccies when I'm home.
Thanks for the link; I'll get that as after driving to the place and paying them buying the tool...
I always enjoy reading your thread Mark. I'm going to do the same with a battery through terminal. What's that lovely great big crimper you've got for your battery cables! I need one :)
Do you have the EPAS wiring already there like I found in mine? would save you some effort if you did.
One...
Sounds like a combo of a flat battery and one of the relays. They are very easy to get hold of, they are fitted on the inside of clios as well under the uch if you want to get a second hand one which hasn't been exposed to the elements.
You'll be able to tell if you're prewired by popping off the top trim of the steering surround. If you've got 6 wires going into the squib you've got it. If you have four you don't.
Yeah you're right Sonny. I've got a four point for the driver but also bought a seat with a 3 point and don't have the money to change it at the moment.
They are totally different frames. I looked into doing this and couldn't see an easy way. Not to say it couldn't be done without some fabrication though :)