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Recently I've done a huge amount of work to my 182 as the steering felt really twitchy and had the tendency to snap to one side of the other quite easily. After changing the parts it is better but by no means does the car feel tight. I can only describe it as it feels like there is a strong wind...

I know someone had a golf which the boot flexi with wires in had chafed, the wires had broken and were earthing on the boot lid blowing the central body module fuse.

shouldn't need to no. This is a bit from a french forum on how to correctly configure clocks. To perform a configuration dashboard, follow the essential steps below: 1 - Make a multiplex network test and ensure compliance. If the multiplex network is not compliant (see MR multiplexing). 2 -...

I just use non-adhesive loom tape and then the standard conduit. Obviously that's my interior loom. The exterior loom uses a lot more conduit. Think @NorthloopCup used heatshrink.

Always difficult to diagnose over the net but! I assume you've checked the wires to the ECU whilst the ignition is on incase you're getting voltage drop. I would go through the whole circuit and checking for continuity and also check for the place where the voltage drops. Did you hard wire the...

Oh lordy lord. I have to resist reading the previous pages because a mod list would be made before even getting one. Stunning car though! Much want for imola red M3, wish they'd put of selling until August.

Also, make sure you check the condition of the ABS rings. I took my running gear off at the weekend and noticed a ring was really corroded but not broken. Now have a light occasionally and pedal farts.

You do into connection unit, configurations and then change the speed setting to ABS. From memory the ignition needs to be off for this to work but I can't remember as haven't done it for a while. It gives you all the instructions as you're doing it. Below example is from a diesel with slightly...

I think it's time to lose the last word of the title..... Make sure you get some good snaps of tomorrow!

It may well be worth calling the likes of dupont and asking for a recommendation from them. If there's someone that will know it's them. I used to work for a car insurer in Tunbridge Wells and still know a lot of the estimators so will ask around to see who's good and bad. Look for PAS125 kitemark.

@R-Sport Cars LTD will know a few I'm sure I only know of motorcare in Tunbridge Wells, really can't go wrong with them but won't be cheap.

Clocks aren't clipped together properly causes that

there must be a break in the circuit for the light to be on solid. It's quite likely to be an earth if you've done the gearbox. Earth for the decoder ring is on the right top of the dash although this is likely to be working correctly as the key is recognised. The ECU earth is the one on the...

Yep, bit missing which attaches to the subframe support.

Can just about see the relays in the bottom right of this pic Another pic from the net. The small black ones. This is hot wiring of the relays to rule them out. Someone else's pic from a ph1 though so slightly different layout of relays.

Rob, that to me sounds like the immobiliser light is on solid (just read it is), few things to check. Make sure the earth on te gearbox is secured properly at both ends. As the light is solid it means the key is recognised but the immobiliser can't turn off. It's usually a hardware problem...

It can be done with CLIP although serves absolutely no purpose at all so I wouldn't waste your time!

Should be as you described. If it's n/s it's easier. Pull the hub back on the ball joint and the shaft should go in no problems. Make sure you put copper slip on the driveshaft.

I had a look at these a while ago. They are a great bit of plug and play but don't offer much flexibility if you want to change things around and have an extremely limited resale market compared to a normal piggy back ecu. If you're happy with the spec it's designed for though I'd go for it.

EPAS is great, no risk of leaks and less rotational mass on the engine.

24mm is standard. Why risk a bolt snapping and a crash for the sake of a few quid on proportionally longer bolts.

No. Nonsport is 20mm and sport is 22.

I got some OEM ones but the old design and they're perfect. I've never actually had a problem with the original design! Cheers Keith, car feels brilliant now, not like it's done 146k. Need to do the same to my cup now...

Finished fitting my whole front end refresh. Car feels brilliant now.

30 minutes to do the climate and clocks, that must be a tease, that's removing snd soldering an SMD in under a minute! I've done white clocks with red displays, looks great and very oem. Also did all the switches, radio etc. Does take some good few hours to do it properly.

25 inner 23 outer they're the same size for all ph2 no matter whether cup or non cup. I've got the part numbers somewhere if you need them

The fuel pump has a relay in the engine fuse box. Maybe its stuck in one position or there's something problem with the live from the ecu which controls it

That looks absolutely superb Mark. Huge envy of your skills and patience to have such a brilliant build on and not rush things to get it done. Just everything is brilliant, love it.

Not many updates on the clio of late as I'm just running it. I do however have a few bits to do on the 182 tomorrow as I want the car to be safe and a pleasure to drive to the alps next month. It should make the car feel like new and take thousands of miles off it. Fitting Uniroyal rain sport...

Since buying my 182 in february I have spent 65% of its cost on new parts which of course was a bit of a shock when I added it up. I kind of expect to spend quite a lot on any car I buy though. Lots of people love cosmetics over how the car drives no matter what price bracket the car is in :)