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When I used to do total loss claims I would have written that off with that damage as there's potentially geo problems with the rear wheel blah blah.
If you've got your estimate though and accept liab for any additional repair costs then insurance wouldn't be a bad if it goes that way.
Sorry I didn't see the post. Have you tried it without bridging the connection. It shouldn't affect getting the light to show on the dash, only setting it the speed and it being held.
Looking at the diagram you don't need to bridge the connection. The connection is only made when the clutch is...
That's exactly how I understand it too. If renault only supply one part now (additional castor part) then it must universally fit. I remember @AlexW putting my 182 cup set up on his car and keeping the 54mm hubs no problem. @sburrell93 knows about the subframe too me thinks.
Yep these are the ones for my 182 non cup.
Here are some of my reg's current and previous for use! Wah, haven't had a ph2 172 non cup!
ph1 - W975 LMW or Y62 GNJ
172 Cup - GD53 NUP
182 Full fat (cup suspension 60mm hubs and cup styling pack) - KB54 HWH or HV05 FKH
182 non cup suspension - LY54...
Yeah as said only one type of wishbone is supplied now for all of them.
Part numbers end in 956 and 957 for left and right hand side.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/281608705383
Ah I thought they were new. Have you tested the resistance on them? They should be 14.5 ohms. It does sound injector related to me. I've never heard of a flashing EML not being that.
I assume to diagnose the cylinder head is the issue they have done a leak off test and have supplied leak off readings to you. If it's just a couple of valves which are leaking a touch you could get it repaired fairly easily by a machine shop. You do really need more specific details about why...
Nope. I actually have a sparco sprint V with omp subframe, a runner and universal ebay sidemounts! It's usually cross-compatible unless it specifically says otherwise. Base mount and sidemounts are a standard size so mix and match as you please.
Sorry I missed your post that would be my idea yeah although you NEED to have the diodes in there to prevent the signal going from one coil wire to the other and firing the wrong cylinders at the wrong time. It should work but I can't promise anything of course!
Some kind of subframe. OMP from YB racing is cheap. Then get a universal runner from ebay. Something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sports-and-Bucket-Seat-Runners-Sliders-DUAL-LOCK-Universal-Fit-/311206548684?hash=item48755b14cc:g:JcQAAOSw7ThUhEcw
You then bolt the runner to the subframe...
It's about time for an update me thinks. I haven't been down to the car since the MOT debacle as it's about 75 miles from where I've moved to now which is a shame as I'm desperate to do some work on the car before track day season is really upon us. I have been stock piling parts in the corner...
Yeah weird isn't it. I measured the car yesterday and it came up as 24mm on the outside so I just can't see any logic here!
Glad they were good! their light output is certainly better than my new 182 ha.
Have a look here matey. Went into as much detail about it as possible last week ! http://www.cliosport.net/threads/epas-on-172-cup.687703/page-24#post-11076405
Another one! My cup had the epas dash loom already there too! It will end at the engine loom though so you need to get the wire from e3 in the r107 to the fuse box. That does mean the dash light and diagnostics will be wired in though which is good. A couple of the original plug wires will need...
I know there are lots of threads on this but they're contradicting what I've found.
This is what's on Kam racing for my 182 which is a non-cup.
Clio Ph2 2.0 16v RS-182:
Outer mount - 22mm - PFF60-207-22
Inner mount - 25mm - PFF60-202-25
I've checked the OEM renault part number on the bush...
this is going to sound crazy but get some really fine grit sandpaper and use circular motions over the bit which is starting to melt, it will improve it no end. I will do this to mine at the weekend if you want to see the results before doing it.
Have you checked you actually have the cruise control wiring on the engine side of the loom as often the wiring is in the dash but stops at the bulkhead connector and then isn't in the ecu.
cruise control is pin 23 in the ecu, speed limiter is pin 49
Pin 77 and 58 are the cruise control button...
@rrtam yeah that goes on the breather line which would go to the carbon canister. You can block the return from the canister with a bolt or bung. I had a little filter on the end of mine although it was an 8mm filter it wasn't perfect but stopped dirt getting in.