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Re: Clio Mk2 Ph1 clicking sound, dead electric windows and rear wiper and central lo I haven't had mine repaired in the past but when I looked at repair BBA Reman and Tachosoft were the ones I was considering. Spoke to BBA and they seemed a well informed bunch and good on the customer service...

Yeah that's it mate. Buy the same stereo you have. Make sure it's textured or smooth depending on what yours is. That adapter works with tuner and update list, plugs into the multi changer socket on the back of the stereo and then you put your stereo on the multichanger option. I've got one and...

There is no difference between the ff and cup steering wheel. Most people get theirs retrimmed by a chap on here. See the Snappy thread.

Well you'll have to! It's almost 100% SMI though.

You'll need another tuner list head unit. Update list and tuner list give their display signal out differently. You're after one of these http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005FMY8PG/?tag=cliospnet01-21

Going over the traffic lights and heading towards paddock wood. Also saw you at the king and queen or the rose and crown (I forget the name) in East Malling earier

Ohh yes that's what I was going to mention, the colour of the fuel that came out was really varied. There was some blue stuff at first and then diesel coloured stuff and then some other orange looking fuel. Really odd. Would like to think I'll have it running by Monday evening but who knows what...

It'll all get done at some point but screw being you and having to fit more in! The wheel is worse in real life as you'll see. Might sand it down the stupid thing. Grips are nice though :)

Did a couple of things today. Removed the fuel and injectors from the Kangoo and got a sport wheel for the Clio. I'm less than pleased with it as I was under the impression it was in good condition. Damn. Anyway I've popped it on and it will have to do until I can afford a refurb. I've been...

Re: Clio Mk2 Ph1 clicking sound, dead electric windows and rear wiper and central lo Fitted on ph1 but not mk1 that where the confusion lies. Correct though, uch will be the problem. All the things you've mentioned aren't working are controlled by it

Very true mate. I usually try and opt for smiths on eBay as they are a real dealer but they don't seem to be listing them at the momento.

I've got a few used bits I'm getting sprayed soon. Want to try and save money and time spent with them down the body shop. Have done prep before but always been given the pads and got on with it. Not entirely sure what grades of paper I should be going through to get it almost ready. Cheers...

@Dan@SJM It's my pleasure to expand your profits ;) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Original-Genuine-Renault-Clio-II-Kangoo-1-5-dCi-Diesel-Timing-Cam-Belt-Kit-Dacia-/171217365252?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27dd59a904 or...

A little annoying considering I paid £137 for mine yesterday! No doubt these will go very quickly http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RENAULT-CLIO-X65-EXPRESSION-DCI-65-2001-2003-1-5DCI-USED-INJECTOR-SET-/271502036800?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f36c84f40

I won't say about the bra but was a bit disappointed and the oem+ bit, was expecting a 197 wheel and a few cup racer bits!

It's only 15 bolts or so and the gates kit comes with great instructions head to renotech though if you don't want to give it a go

Well I didn't read the first post properly, completely missed the ticking thing. Valve + piston = bad

You say your local breakers? which one, obviously I'm insanely close to you! best one is GW bridges near gatwick, you go in, take the bit you want, they charge you hardly anything and then you go. Let me know if you need a hand.

Fair price is £45 for the belt, £25 for the WP and 3 to 4 hours labour. If Renotech are using genuine parts then the belt is around £60/70 and the WP more so their price looks best to me. Cheaper prices will use non gen as I've quoted prices for above It really is the easiest job in the world...

Yeah it is a pulley of sorts. Not an ordinary one though because it creates the VVT. If it runs it's unlikely you'll cause damage driving it but it's definitely best to get it sorted asap.

another vote for out with CL pads

I wasn't that impressed by the 182 manifold on a 172. You loose in one place (mid) to gain in another (top end). It's not that bad to swap over but some high axle stands definitely make it easier.

You've answered your own question bud. Sounds like they've got soaked. What's the connector like? corroded?

What sealer would you recommend. Need to sort ours out.

You could get a spare clip from a breakers or just use the window like normal. Mine fell out the other day. I laughed, popped it back and it's not been a problem since.

How many do you want, I might have a couple laying around. You can't use a normal nut as it would crush the piece of spacer that goes through into the other side. edit: I see you want 3, I'll have a look. Might have a spacer as well but I think I chucked them

It's on the front of rack, white sticker, visible from underneath. Likely it's an SMI though, I've never come across one that isn't

With the deflectors I believe you're suppose to put the window up and down a few times making sure you help it up to it's top position. Do it with the engine running as it gives them extra boost. Then leave the windows up for at least 24 hours. If you've done all that all ready then I apologise...

Just checked my old heater panel. Same bulb that's in the display. Can't remember what they're called but I imagine you do! I'm pretty sure I had to message everyone who had been selling a ratty 182 wheel for the last 6 months before I got mine!

easier than putting your socks on. 1 nut, 30mm