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so if you dont use the kit and do it the old fashioned way, do you just keep topping the reservoir up while someone pumps the brake kit and you bleed the brakes? i take it the brake fluids dont mix then, ie the new fluid sits on top of the old stuff?
yeah for the big brake conversion youll need the caliper off a valver, as the discs are bigger - i just got the fast road kit in the end, the 99 quid one, and thats good enough for the power you can put down!!
attempted to change my brake fluid today, but it went a bit wrong and i abandoned it!
got the gunson eazibleed kit, and put the cap on the reservior in place of the normal one, and all was fine until i connected up the spare tyre to pressurise it (yeah i made sure it was under 20psi). it seems...
i do 3rd to 60, the engine seems to lose power at the top end of 2nd also - btw, whats the 0-60 of you guys then? got about 11s on my way to work this morning at 6am (Rob Fenn you know bluewater mate? i work there at 6am so get the roads all nice and clear, theres a lvely straight as you enter...
well roughly it does about a pint and a bit of coolant every 2-3 weeks.
yeah i do spend a fair amount of time sitting in traffic - job means a bit of driving during day in towns, therefore bastardy queues! in that case is the coolant loss expected?
core plugs, what are they? prob a really...
not bigger brakes as in from a style point of view, but yeah theyre better than my standards, wear less quickly, less brake dust, and no fade. bargain for £99 IMO!
ok cheers - sorry this isnt the right thread topic now realyl but any reasons for coolant loss of the kindive descrribed? surely evaporation wouldnt account for this?
also, squeezed the pipes (dont ask why?!!) going to and from matrix - felt all crusty, like there was a rough lining i nthem...
any idea where it senses this from, if it senses anything apart from the pads? ive had the amber pad warning light on before, red didnt come on with it!
like i said the fluid is low, ill top up and see what happns. should i flush the fluid periodically?
oh yeah, if if you dont fancy the hassle and want performance without the extra looks, k-tec is a good kit, had it on for a bout a month, nice stopping!
ok, brakes - if you want bigger, then you need to get valver calipers (perhaps carrier?). this will mean you get your 16v brakes, however pedal travel will be longer, and dependin on how bad it is after you have done it you might need a valver master cylinder also - a b*****d to fit acordin to benr.
rang them today, they want, and i quote: "ohh something like £36.50 sir" - oh just a rough figure then!
i think ive narowed it down to the brakes, because i checked my fluid level and the level is at min (but only 1month after it was topped up on new brakes and discs!). i think i need to look...
do they charge for a diagnostic check? i need to know whats wrong with it before i decide if i wanna do it myself or pay them a huge price ;)
renault bexleyheath or blackheath? or can i go independent?
ok so it looks like im gonnabe stuck with my 1.4 for a while yet ;)
got quite a worrying prob - the stop / warning light intermittently comes on (flickers) while im driving, more so when cold, but occaisonaly when the engine is running, at about 2.8k rpm!!!
ive checked the oil, water...
yeah, but money though!!! i wanted to do the engine conversion becuase (a) i love anything mechanical (b) i envisaged it would be a straight swop, and (c) therefore it wouldnt be too expensive!
just dont have 2.5k!!!
sh*t thats a lot of money for a extra 200cc, albeit with a basically brand new engine and ECU!
really, valvers are about for about 2.5k?! :osuddenly makes me wonder about doing this! however, i know the maintainence would be bloody high, as its about now all the biggies need to be replaced...
how do whole driveshafts go? not saying theyre wrong, but just interested as to how the whole shaft can need replacing! accident damage?
if its bearings, ~£25-30 + fitting (per bearing)
driveshaft, dunno:
http://www.andyspares.comhttp://www.andyspares.com
bigger rims do put more strain...
right, cheers for the info, this is exactly what i wanted so i know exactly what im looking at - perhaps a bit naive becuase i assumed it was a straight swap over (i.e. why offer the 1600 megane lump when you may aswell put in a valver / GTT motor if there are going to be issues with injection...
sorry mate, daz has a link somewhere on his site for it...
found it,
http://www.daz-uk.com/cliosport/guides/lowering-torsion-bar/http://www.daz-uk.com/cliosport/guides/lowering-torsion-bar/
just read this...
http://www.carsurvey.org/review_6411.htmlhttp://www.carsurvey.org/review_6411.html
its an owner of the megane 1.6 8v RT, says theres a known fault with the 8v engines - true?!
do you know of the 8v engine? no i wouldnt try a 16v conversion myself, can imagine the problems!
ah right,i see what he means, should know about the clios before i branch out to renaults in general!
well ok, an 8v single-point inj lump. i will try to get hold of a haynes for it - anyone know what year the engine was produced from, i would imagine the same time as the clio RT?
i am...
ok ben, didnt know it was a 16v!!! the 1.8 RSi is an 8v right, i think it only kicks out about 95bhp, according to haynes. (an F3P engine right?)
maybe it is a bit more work than i envisaged, and if it is then yeah ben id agree im not experienced enough yet. i was under the impression that the...