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just bleed the nipples in the correct order, while keeping the reservior always topped up with new fluid. when each nipple bleeds fresh, stop and move on. That easy. oh yeah, pump the brake pedal to move it through, but dont let the reservior empty or youll have air all throguh the brakes. i...

look under the car. the two "rails" that go from around about the subframe back, and have the exhaust between them, are what you want.

and the preload therefore is essential to a good solid ride? is it dangerous to drive without it?

i know its prob what you donw wanna hear, and chris will prob tell me its b****cks, but someone once told me some cars you just cant ever sto pthe squeak. i mean, short of replacing the larger items, like calipers, pistons, etc... if everything really has been stripped, cleaned and greased...

chris, if you dont mind can you exapnd a bit on the knowing how much preload the cars gonna put on the bar? is it a constant, or will it change with the different spline positions?

just out of interest what is trhat axle stand under? ive never relly been 100% sure where to put them, i used to use the chassis runners but after seeing my dads 309 crumple under it, ive gone to usign the reinforced points on the corners of the sills. wheres the best palce?

ah chris thanks v.much for that you have cleared it up for me, ill try that then! cheers again

copper grease on the backing plates, but i have tried (with varying degrees of success) on a few cars, i have been told some just cant be unsqueaked!!! bullsh*t?!

so is the term "warping" just another way of saying uneven wear? how can they be fitted badly chris? i fitted them myself, but am by no means any expert so where might i have gone wrong? in any case, i take it i need new discs?!

I have had the K-Tec fast road kit on for about 6000 miles now, and afetr about 5000 miles i started noticing a kind of "wobble" in the brake pedal under braking, feels like the disc may have warped? its quite uncomfortable now every time you have to brake! is there any other explanation for...

its brake fluid level!

search, i asked this a week or so ago!

i remember reading a thread on here ages ago about the same problem, i think bobRTE solved it,it was down to the fact that one car has a n immobiliser and another doesnt (may not be exactly right, cant remember it precisely) - search and youl find it

anti-clockwise for it off - if its stiff, stick a screwdriver through the middle of it (it will be messy) and use that as a lever to wind it off. and when you put the new one on - dont overtighten it, hand tight!

id leave the airbox tbh mate, its pretty good as standard and withotu decent work and money you arent gonna be able to get noticably different results!

no wont do that - think theyre meant to give a fuller spark and ignite the mixture more completely but there are very mixed views on this!

not worth the money IMO

id echo benR and say DIY - ive never had any mechanical experience, or any mechanical relatives, but i am fairly practically minded and with just the trusty "haynes book of revelations" (love that quote Ben P i think you wrote it!) i managed to do a clutch swap on a micra and on a rover 214...

yeah will do

he would be able to see the sensor if he takes a peek... mine doesnt but its a 96 RT, yeah it has the light also but no ABS. dont think you do but surely he could see? oh and if the cars not been started on why not drive it and try to lock up the brakes, thatl tell you;)

it wont be an induction kit as such then if you have a carbd clio, you need a bolt-on filter - K+N will prob do one for you,dunno about others?!

ok mate, thanks for your help.

chris, its more than a wee jolt every min or so - havent had the time to get under the bonnet, but just went round the back to listen to the exhaust, it loses its pressure about every 3-5 secs, sometimes v slight sometimes momentarity completely - this still tie in with valves? TBs - would fuel...

done them when i bought the car 9mths ago, would they go out that quick? the ICV (called an idle speed control motor in haynes bible, that what you call it?), how do i test it?cant be anythin on ignition sys like leads, dizzy as it is only occasional, as in it will run fine most of the time...

cheers as ever ben, ill look at it later!

ive got the ziex 512s on my car at the mo, were great to start with, but now theyve done about 4000 miles they are really loosing performance (dunno if others go that quickly?) i dont drive harshly, but now they are not too good in the wet, had a couple of near misses with them feeling on the...

doesnt sound much like mine - gonna change the leads / cap / arm and see what happens, but from what ive searched on here it could be a idle control valve sticking, throttle potentiometer (is that a throttle position sensor?). anything else? cheers guys

IE 6 SP1, damn bill gates ill put IE 6 back in!

ah with you now... but what about big things like clutches, water pumps, gasket sets, etc... you dont want the assurance that youre buying a reliable and top standard part?

lol, ive still got a whlole side of my car banged in, i can just imagine: "oh sir, we fixed your snapped wire, and also took trhe liberty of replacing the door and rear quarter panel...now if we could just settle the bill...."