Search results

ok after you have the pads out, unbolt the caliper and then put a g-clamp in the piston and turn it to force it back. youll be lucky if you can lever it open, be careful not to break the seal either.

garage youre looking at roughly £150 upwards...ive always replaced tensioner when doing belt as its just a pain in the arse if they f**k up inbetween belts

not exactly f**k it up, but a fair amt of work to get them working properly. never worked on a car with rear discs, but could imagine you would need the hubs, discs(!), calipers, pads, and then a bias valve installed. hope i havent missed anything out. upgrading - assume you mean front? what...

ok thanks, btw, when they say pack exactly how much is that? swamp it completely? sounds a bit of a gay question, just i always read that and wondered...

no, never have! just spoke to a mechanic, says it will be ok to put it back in with grease. gonna finally finish it now, if the rain stops pissing down.

had the rear drum off today to change a cylinder that was pissing all over the shoes, and when i went to put it back on half the fecking bearing just came apart from the drum and sat on the axle on its own!the lower half (is it the outer race?) is still in the drum, and i have put the top half...

lol now hell be confused!i was always told that no.1 cylinder was at timing end,but on my RT it seems that, like chris says, they call that 4, and dizzy end 1. either way works (and it wont even be your leads after all this)

with your calipers i think you are pretty limited to the disc you can buy. KTec and Tar.Ox are the only ones i know of to be a direct replacement for solid (238mm is it?) discs. i got the Ktec ones, you shuold have got them in a kit (pads and discs together), prob would have been cheaper? RE...

steve if no.1 is your timing cover end, you want the following numbers, both of above are wrong!: 3 1 4 2 if you set it up like this, and it still dont work, you know that either your HTs are f**ked, or its not them!

its not the easiest reach in the world, but yeah its do-able with some muscle on a lever keeping the belt taught while retightening it. though check you dont need a new belt also.

if its running on 3 cyclinders it will act like this. if you look at your dizzy face on, the order should be as follows: 3 1 4 2 where 1 is at the timing cover end. surprising how easy it is to do this, after rebuilding my old micra engine, i got to turning it over and...

hmm ok, you have a point, like i said was just being lazy not wanting to piss about with different seals to get a fit. i also read a few other ppl saying theyd bought it and it was now redundnt in a dark corner of their garage and were being workaholics! but yeah seeing as im doing f**k all this...

just looked up the gaiter change in haynes, you need a press tho for the bearing in the gaiter right? are there any home ways for doing this, or is a trip down to the garage for just the press needed?

ok i was a lazy sh*te and was put off trying again when my first attempt resulted in fluid everywhere, didnt want the same happening again. the old fashioned method seems much easier.

why so particular about the drop? i doubt you will be able to notice 5mm here or there. search the forum for "anyone here using APEX springs?" topic, got a good discussion in there, and list all the good makes there.

painting yourelf?! ive seen some DIY attempts, they look sh*t after a very short amount of time!

do a comp test,im by no means an expert, but it could be down to pressure? chris or ben prob have better advice

the engine will run on 3 cylinders anyway, but sound sh*te. have you had a comp test since the damage was done? sounds like no pressure? had a mate with a polo who had a cracked manifold, therefore no pressure, therefore alwyas wanted to stall as soon as you came off throttle.

discs you need to undo 2 bolts and then the two torx screws and it comes off with a bit of help. putting the new ones on, dont forget to flush the hub mating surface first, or your discs may wear unevenly due to uneven surface. would def do yourself, easy job.

ok, but they all sell for around there so how does that work?

have done em on a few cars now, never anything particularly difficult about them, id do them myself (but then im a tight git)

yeah i thought about that, but it looks like it has been leaking for a good while, so ill prob drain the box and refill it. is it just the gaiter, so i dont have to buy a whole inner CV? but i assume still shaft out job to fit it? btw cheers for your help chris, been spot on with all my qs!

they havent actually offered it to me yet! the figure is the outcome of the assessment, but i *hope* (touch large pieces of wood!) that they will pay out. got a letter from my solicitor today asking me to confirm my agreement to the value, and then they will request it etc. so a good deal yeah...

I am in dispute over a crash where a lorry put a lovely hole in the side of my 1.4 RT (95 M) last december. They have just had my vehicle assessed and have given its pre-accident market value as £1450. now i got it in October 02 for £1750 (they dont know this yet) - do you all think this is a...

yeah nr/s

there appears to be some fluid loss from the gearbox, and looks like it is coming from where the left-hand driveshaft meets with the box. is it possible to remove the driveshaft oil seal on its own, or is it non-renewable (ie will i need a new driveshaft?).

when you fit them, make sure you clean the mating face of the hub with a wire drill bit to level it off, i didnt when i fitted the fast road kit on mine about 6000 miles ago and now have unevenly worn discs :(

im talkin about small stuff: HTs / dizzy cap / rotor arm/ etc... better from reno or are the patents ok? saying this coz i bought a cap and HTs from a motor spares shop near me today, and ended up with universal fit HTs coz the clio patents they had were a really crap fit. i know this is getting...

cheers, cleared that one up!

am attempting to renew the fluid, tried the eazibleed kit but couldnt get a seal on it, so am doing it the old fashioned way! when you pump the pedal down to expel fluid, the haynes manual says to tighten the nipple each time before you release pressure from the brake pedal, in order not to...