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Touche! I've actually been buying non-shiny fibreglass parts lately...

weirdo!

Worst things about the Clio as standard is the natural understeer, the gearchange and the unexciting VVT I personally like an engine to come on cam and then excite. All easily addressed. LSD, some cup shocks and lowering springs (Grams of course) PMS 19mm ARB and a Pure Motorsport Gearlinkage...

adjuster knob I think is held in place with a small grub screw. I would be stripping the top mount down, checking the bearing for wear and play. They wear out eventually - especially so as bearings prefer a verticle orientation for longevity(but I'm yet to see that design make its way to any...

Same for toyosport and the other chinese brands. Rather a lot of people are fitting them though. Just fix your current one and it will last years

Direnza is pretty damn cheap https://www.kamracing.co.uk/car-tuning/renault/renault-clio-mk3/intake-exhaust/renault-clio-direnza-manifold-with-decat-rs197-rs200.html

Ive managed to set up mine relatively easily with the Hikvision app. Not sure how to get it to do the alerts though. Not getting a peek from my phone yet when an alert is triggered.

You will have to set a budget. BC Br is £764 and includes top mounts. Ds are £90 more and also include top mounts. For the price they are rather hard to beat https://www.kamracing.co.uk/car-tuning/renault/renault-clio-mk2/suspension.html?product_category_sub=4326&product_car_model_new= Another...

Wow. What have you done wrong to get that high insurance lol I'm running a 328 F30 and its brilliant in traffic due to its ability to crawl along happily in most gears. I can crawl at 25-30mph in 5th. With an auto version it would be extremely capable in bad stop start traffic. Out of choice...

With the limitations of a twist beam in play then rear roll centre is not really an area that can be improved significantly to actually make any difference. I always prefer to work a different way. Find the problem first. What do you want to achieve? Better grip, tyre wear, the chassis dynamics...

It will be a basic Dot 4 specs

as long as the disc is not pitted with the rust then it will sweap clean with some good use.

When you going to move to the F series so I know what can be done on mine? ha ha

Is it a setup issue or is the hikvision software a little flaky?

The basic fact of the matter is different compounds react to the weather and lack of care of a road car differently. I think you did well to get three years and 18000miles out of them. I've seen many people needing OEM brakes in a similar time. You try the same with Ferodo DS1.11 and you will...

Yeah I cant figure that one either. But the guy who owns it has a really successful business he was running a team through a few years ago. I forget the details.

Shockingly fast. His wet lap times are what the majority were at in the dry. Could have gone faster if the KTM Xbow was not in the way. Has something like 800bhp

Advancement in Tyres, suspension and the evolution of active differentials have tamed the cars somewhat. They still get driven on the limit but arguably in a more predicatable manner

Up your game. You could run some coilovers with full active electronic damping lol Road cars need race parts too :D

We've had no failed Grams springs yet. They do a nice ride height too - lower than the Eibach.

Its nothing to do with spring diameter really. Theres multiple ways to make a spring to a given spring rate. You can use a thinner wire and more coilovers, or thicker and less coils. This gives different characteristics to the spring behaviour. Its metal, when the powdercoating eventually fails...

use what you have. I would say once you've gone through a bedding in period. Allow the brakes to cool and go through a second heat cycle to make doubly sure you have done it right.

The pads are not R90 compliant so cannot be sold as road pads. They basically have too high friction level. Try them and then if they dont work for you you have something tangeble to regret lol but also something you can change through understanding of how you are using the car and how the pads...

Really you need matched pads AND discs. You can contaminate the pads by changing compound and going through another breaking in session so its not really a simple swap pads job. Basically for a car driven to track its not really worth doing as you wont have that much wear.

A few people I know have bought ex-ktec championship clio 182's nice and cheap

Thanks Rojer but I cant take much credit for the CAD drawings. I come up with the silly ideas and a friend of mine does the clever bit to make it reality

Your spacers will be delivered to you tomorrow :D

Can't say I like the look.

I have a single Renault disc here! Edit - bugger its a 182 one :D Normal discs in stock lol

Do you want me to give you a quote on the Powerflex Jon?