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I think this "mod" is probably unique :P Untitled by mikehiow, on Flickr

Finding a welder is not an issue. Any pictures of one fitted?

A rollcage would be the next step for me, and certainly one that'll be high on the priority if the Clio performs well at Silverstone in February. I want to keep my options open regarding competition, so whatever I consider should be FIA certified (or equivalent) and blue book compliant...

Mine is on 142k. It had a replacement gearbox and dephaser pulley earlier this year and I've just done a full suspension/bush/balljoint refresh. It's never yet let me down though.

I've not got around to fitting it yet.

Been out for more goodies this morning - Honda Formula Red paint for the OZ F1s, so I can get down to the unit over the Christmas period to get them blasted and painted - a brilliant opportunity to test out the new media blaster, spray guns and spray booth :) Also picked up a new crank sensor -...

Purchased the updated sensor and loom this morning - they had it on the shelf and I whinged enough to get the pair for £56 inc. VAT. At least this way it's done and won't need doing again.

That could make sense as I changed this for an unknown old one that was just laying around but looked in better condition when I changed the box. Just read some threads suggesting I should pull the engine forward on the engine mount, as this has often been reported as the cause for vibration at...

I assumed some idiot thought it would be a good idea to use a different connector in later models and they didn't want to manufacture two different crank sensors that are internally identical :P So you think it's worth getting the updated loom and sensor regardless then?

Would you care to elaborate on that Fred? The connector is the same shape and the pins are in the same place, the lock functions as it should - it's a pretty simple connection. I did initially think the same thing and tried using a cable tie to secure the plug solidly, to no avail. I'm...

If it is either, I'm failing to see how if the original crank sensor still works?

No, the one I bought is not the modified part.

Ok, so I bought a pattern crank sensor from a company on Amazon which did not work - I thought nothing of it and went to find another, which I eventually sourced from my local SES. The item is a Fuel parts labeled part. The problem is, this one does not work either - the car just does not fire...

I'd also be interested to know what spacers people with standard 182 cup wheels have gone for on a 182 cup/packed car.

New Cup Shocks, sportline springs, top mounts, ARB polybushes, wishbone polybushes, track rods and ball joints all done. That is now every bush that can be polybushed done now, too. Some boring pictures: IMG_0158 by mikehiow, on Flickr IMG_0159 by mikehiow, on Flickr IMG_0160 by mikehiow...

I figured it out when comparing the top mounts between sides, but for future reference for others: Right: New working Middle: New not working Left: Old I'm annoyed that I didn't notice this when assembling to be honest, but there we go. It turns out I was supplied one old and one new kit...

182 cup dampers, eibach sport line springs - one side seems ok, but the other side had the top hat sitting miles abou the turret. Obviously this leaves a lot of play. Took shock back out and everything appears assembled correctly - spring plate, bearing (tried both ways), top mount, revised...

Oh my

I understand what an ARB is supposed to do, and on independent arms/wishbones where the arb is fixed to the chassis/ a subframe or similar, that is pretty much what happens. But I fail to see how that is happening when the only fixings are all on the arm which is pivoting with suspension...

Works in what way? What changes have you observed? As far as I can see even if you did make it stiffer and it did change something, you'd merely be lifting the inside wheel earlier, but I'm still putting my money on the effect being purely placebo. Unless someone truly in the know can show...

So you're telling me that beam twists more than 18mm bar that is fixed to the shock with an L bracket made from what looks like 4mm plate?

Wtf? Am I seeing that correctly, the whole arb is attached to nothing but the rear beam? Surely it is doing absolutely sweet fa?

Where can I find the paint code and yellow decals for oz f1s?

ARB and Wishbone polyflex bushes ordered from Kam. It was at a great price too, until I got stung over £20 for shipping!

Thanks, that really helps!

I'm fortunate in the fact that I'm doing it on a silver car, so imperfections are not the end of the world. Most would be done in my garage, which is pretty clean to be fair :) It'd be interesting to see how shiny a perfectly flat silver car could be though.

I keep meaning to give it a go on the Clio. Not because I care about the car and want it to look shiny, but rather because I don't care about it and fancy giving it a crack. Perhaps over christmas it'd be worth giving a go a panel at a time.

What are the differences? I've seen posts on here where people have claimed they have fitted ph2 wheels/bosses on ph1, so a boss supposedly intended for a ph2 should fit, no?

I understand how the wishbone ones are fitted and it looks simple enough. Is it really necessary to tack the collars in place though? Also, what are the ARB bushes like to fit?

The trouble is, it's much harder to make a car handle better when it already handles well as standard. It's entirely possible and perhaps even likely that a lot of these mods are just a placebo. I think you'd see far more benefit with say standard cup dampers and eibach springs when supported...