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it's fairly straighforward but it's a good idea to make sure the bleed nipples are all free before starting (if they're seized, they'll likely snap, and you'll have a problem). Gunsons Easibleed helps a lot as well (cheap pressure bleeder - Halfords) generic process is in Haynes/etc; must have...

they're only something like £12 from ECP/GSF

^ that's the thing (Daniel's point) - if that was the agreement, that was the agreement least he should do is attempt to save some face by covering your expenses (he is thousands of pounds up at the moment). presumably tricky if he's prepared to put you out like that in the first place though

can't believe people do stuff like this. i'd be livid as well have you asked him if he'll reimburse you the train ticket?

would be best to check it's not the horn first - use a couple of test leads to connect it directly to the battery. if it works, the problem's with the wiring/'button' i can't remember how many connections the horn has - if it has two, they'll be live&earth; if it has one, it'll be live and the...

i'd go for genuine Renault leads if they're not too expensive, as the quality you see in some aftermarket leads is v poor the genuine plugs are NGK (not sure on the code - will come up on search), but Renault are apparently expensive for them. not suggesting that they'll be much cheaper, but...

crumbling, as in rusty? lambdas are easiest using a bench vice once the cat's off

sorted (welded a washer over it) cheers for thoughts and offer

they're fairly impractical for the road, really without buckets, the safety thing's the biggest issue otherwise - the shoulder straps bear down on your shoulders, rather than the slots in a bucket seat - would compress your spine in the event of an accident

lots of people suggest that, but PT'd seatbelts should hold you bolt-upright as well

lap belt can be bolted to the standard belt's mounting points it's not ideal but is easily do-able, and legal personally, wouldn't bother in a road car, but it's a good way of adding comfort/stability-in-the-seat for track days, etc

this is what i do/did - the harness just goes under the headrest it's not illegal, but lots of people will tell you that, in the event of an accident, the standard seats aren't designed to deal with the loads and that you run a greater risk of back/spine injury you have to remove the rear...

thanks:) might have a go in-situ if i can get it far enough away from the paint

it'd be nice if the engine lasts longer than the rest of the stuff that's fitted. guess it's still relatively early-days, but sounds promising with some of the mileages, and haven't read much about HGs/oil burning/death rattles/etc - seem to be a few cambelt failures though ed. not sure, but...

it's usually 7mm+ for ordinary car road tyres

looking at this, with a view to welding it can anyone confirm that the whole assembly needs to come out (looks as though it does?) and, if so, if i disconnect battery and ECU, will it all go back together without creating faults/illuminating dash warning lamps, etc?

they're not perfect as they're moulded out of a rigid material and are presumably trimmed out of the mould. you can't see it until you take them off, but the OE rubber grips have a lip that fits into the wheel (can see the recess in the photos), so will be a better fit. (the GRP/carbon grips...

can't stand these stage 1/2/3 tuning options that people use 230hp sounds more like a stage 9 remap anyway

could try Krych (http://www.krychtrimming.co.uk/main.html) (-cheeky ask-) could you post up what they quote if you do enquire?

one of my mates (he's a bit of a one) bought a VW style flick-key from HongKong (there'll be millions of them on fleabay) that he's spent ages putting his Honda key into. it's p*sspoor quality as well

if you've not a longer bar, trying thumping the ratchet with a decent mallet; should knock it free as said, worst case scenario is a new sump. presumably it's steel (?), so should be OK

any luck this weekend Matt?

can't believe people think Cups are twitchier than 205s - they handle completely differently; Cup's practically unstickable compared with a 205 (still haven't had mine moving, except whilst braking deep). maybe there's something going on with the individual cars being compared? anyway...

tbh, just taking the rear seats and all the stuff in the boot out will give you an idea of pros/cons the cons (noise, effort) will increase as you take more out, and the pros will diminish (as you've already taken the bulkiest bits out) unless you go the whole hog

planning on going with family and friends. not been for a couple of years, but it's been a good show on past occasions. not looking forward to the parking!

does look about as far forward as it's coming a few people have found that their top engine mount has split/torn in two, so doing that one next is your best bet. the only other mount is the little rubber block on the front of the gearbox, and that's just a support/packing piece really. at...

if it's particularly bad, best to change it immediately, as they can break up and seize (danger of losing both drive and steering if it's the CV)

thanks for the explanation fair old mess this guy's found himself in

that sounds as it should be; there's a picture on KTEC's site: http://www.k-tecracing.com/show_product.asp?id=1485 difficult to see, but the washers should go either side of the smaller, front mount apart from actually renewing the rest of the mounts, only other thing i can think to suggest...

if you're spanner friendly, it's not a massive job - just takes time/patience if it's all corroded up you'll almost certainly need someone to hold the bolts from the engine bay whilst you work underneath