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there's no stop as such for the pistons - they just wind back until they're flush with the caliper body does sound odd that you've different bleed nipples; maybe one's snapped and someone has managed to replace it. the rear calipers are an ancient design and have been fitted to loads of...

just use petrol. something else is going on if that won't take it off not that any of this other stuff might, but petrol won't take your paint off

Protyre if you've got one locally you could try swapping the wheels about to see if that makes any difference i've a mysterious light vibration from mine that seems to be road-surface dependent haven't spent long looking at it, but it's not the wheels/balance/tyres; i'd wondered if it might...

so long as the fluid's well above the bottom of the reservoir, no if you'd run out of brake fluid, you'd know about it, as you'd have no brakes(:)) lift the front end up and check that the wheels spin freely. if they're binding, you'd expect the front wheels to give off a lot of heat after...

if it's not been on long, you might get away with re-using the mesh ring gasket; if not, they are available individually for about a fiver if there's any pitting, it'll be at the outer edges of the cat mouth and you might actually be able to see it without removing anything not saying it's...

you can't use any sealants pre-cat unfortunately, as they could make their way through the cat and damage it as they're burnt if that's what's causing your prob, there's not much you can do about it easily - i did look into brazing the pitting and refinishing it (lots of work), or cutting off...

i didn't have the RS lower on mine and didn't notice any difference upon fitting reworked inlet/plenum (although there was an obvious difference in the port mouths, castings side-by-side) think it's one of those things - there must be so much variation in the castings that you don't know until...

lol. happy shopping anyway, bifcaids

MM sell lots of different pads; it's just an alternative suggestion of a convenient source, free of postage costs (:)) i'd not use the 50mm thick pads though, as they're quite 'wobbly'

do they actually produce results that you can see differ though? (i don't know, but am dubious) these, i suspect, are the same pads that MM sell: http://www.seriousperformance.co.uk/Products,90,toView_288.html when SP first started selling them, they were over £8ea - they have halved their...

if you're looking to avoid spending too much, buy a machine on its own (that Kestrel's much cheaper than the Meguiars machine), and buy a couple of bottles of the 250ml Menzerna polishes (Intensive and Final Finish should do it); Machine Mart sell 6" orange compounding pads for about £5ea -...

not sure about the spoiler, but it is a good-looking car in profile. quite like the wheels:o

is it the original cat? i fitted a (new) decat to mine, just to see if it would cure the blowing, as the mouth of the cat was pitted due to corrosion (where it sits over the mesh ring gasket thing on the manifold). decat cured the blowing, but came off due to the noise. possible you've the...

sorry - that's a typo - should have read 'spin'

does sound like lazy/sticky caliper pistons. can you spring the fronts freely whilst they're up in the air? something must be up for pad wear like that

all the way:)

ZS sounds a good bet if it's been in the family from new. i'd quite like one there's a guy who sprints a turbocharged Puma locally and, in class, it's untouchable. it's 1676cc - is that the 1700 Puma's capacity? don't know what he's done to it

was also thinking that the running costs have got to be a nightmare in comparison with a Clio. go for it if you think it's do-able though! Cerberas have been 'cheap' for a while; think there've been lots of engine rebuilds; bad idea?!

it's not just the engine you're running in though - gearbox, brakes, tyres, etc i'd be inclined to follow the manufacturer's guidance, which is dull i suppose

i've not used them but was told that the RS shafts that ECP/GSF supply (?) come through a company called Drivelink http://www.drivelink.com/ might be worth checking round a few companies; GKN, etc if you find a cheaper-than-OE-alternative, could you maybe share findings?

you've got the right one (part nrs have changed)

try EuroCarParts if you've one nearby, as theirs is around £13/L

have a look when you get there - they bolt straight to mouldings in the back of the bumper (no brackets). i think the fog loom disconnects from somewhere, so could remove it

it's probably just algae, or maybe some sort of clagging reaction between different types of screen wash additive. it'll happen eventually as, unlike the coolant, the washer fluid isn't circulated and sits stagnant just take the bottle off and flush it through, or disconnect hose and do it in-situ

they're easy to get off - loosen the undertray along the bottom of bumper, unbolt lamps

re-read that you've lost one of the hangers - it just looks odd with that one that's pointing rearwards, as there's no use for it with the standard mount? anyway, it shouldn't be too big a job to sort it. would have thought most exhaust fitters/fabricators will deal with Bosal and they've a...

sorry to hear you've still probs with it what's going on with that backbox? is it supposed to fit the car? the hanger's the wrong way around? getting a decent fit for the backbox is going to revolve around what you can do with the hanger - i guess your welder would have considered it, but...

i ended up using Evostick contact adhesive (cheap and widely available) and think it'll be fine. did consider Tigerseal, but i may have the leather replaced at some point, and Tigerseal's a bugger to get off

you don't need to be able to get at the clock with some of them, but that one you do. taking the top of the dash off isn't a big job:)

i'm not familar either but, if the end of the cat pipe is flared like the one in your piccie, you'll definitely need an olive inbetween :)