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thanks for that. was hoping that'd be the case as i've not noticed a big improvement renewing undamaged OE springs/dampers on past cars before - wasn't sure if the RS was a special case (again)

the rears are a ridiculous £100+ each; assume the fronts are similar money. the dampers are about £50ea

can i ask if there was a very real improvement each time you renewed? . i think i should really do the lot on mine as well, but don't fancy the cost of genuine springs. from other comments, maybe Eibachs + std dampers?

something in the tyre tread?

:) they make a massive difference when new - loads of light did look into something similar on the Clio, but can't find anything that'll swap over easily anyway, coming along nicely. how are its mechanicals after having been stood up?

i know (:)) - just wondering if they're particularly poor on the Clio, hence thinking about the hydraulic conversion

just wondering, but what are the drums like at locking the rears? could save money/hassle by just fitting a fly-off ratchet to the lever (Tony's suggesting you can do that by reversing the ratchet at the base of the lever - ?)

sounds like a bit of a 'mare. i'd be thinking the same - it's probably also disturbed something further up the line (i'd be worried about the manifold to head studs but not sure that'd be the cause of the vibration) - may be the mani's bent somehow and the exhaust isn't sitting as it should as a...

:evil:

have a look at Tweeks/etc and/or call some rally prep outfits. they're just a lever/box with a master cylinder which you somehow plumb into the calipers

i guess a MoT tester would be able to confirm either way, but i thought parking brakes had to be mechanical (not that a mechanical failure is any less likely than a hydraulic one). the levers on hydraulic handbrakes don't usually have ratchets either i think you can buy combi...

can't be all that difficult to fit one (might need different calipers?) but there's obv. going to be an amount of plumbing involved. they're not road legal BTW (if that's a consideration) do Tweeks/etc have kits? or drums instead of discs?

not the place in this thread, but i've been thinking it might be interesting to start a 'who hasn't broken their gearbox yet' poll. i know you two guys are active in posting whenever it crops up, but there are masses of people with problems (crunchy gears, etc)

£300 is pretty cheap for a rebuild - would be wondering about how much has actually been replaced for that little. unless you can do it yourself, you're probably looking at round-about £200 for fitting as well could try renewing/uprating the mounts, as they're a common prob. if they're the...

the thread of the bolt is exposed under the car although i'm not sure how much of it protrudes - if there's enough there, there are a couple of things you could try doing

not sure where you're based but i've got the Vibratechnics ones in mine if you'd like to try them out first (just ping me a PM; i'm in Yate/ish) i did swap them for relatively new OE mounts and didn't notice a massive difference TBH (already had poly dogbone bushes) but they're going to be...

pretty sure you can get seal kits but, depending upon how much you can find one for, it might just be simpler to swap it for a s/h one

i know the UK's spoilt with an enormous aftermarket industry re. motoring/mechanics, but is there really no one in Belgium who would be able to recondition the rack? apart from internet searches, you could try asking around (hydraulics specialists - check through goods vehicle owners; classic...

shiyan, have you looked into having your rack reconditioned?

yeah. just need to knock them out with hammer/screwdriver. should be easy on a 182; it's awkward on a 172 as the mani's much shorter

thing is, you'll eventually end up going through that list with a newer car anyway (ed. as above) this is just my own perception after 2yrs in mine, but a lot of the stuff bolted to these is either poorly designed or of crap quality (IMO/etc). the engine seems good though

you'd need to take it all off/apart, clean, and apply to the mating faces before putting it all back together again, preferrably with all new gaskets as well the one Halfords sell is Loctite 5920

they push into the recess in either side of the manifold flange. if the original ones are OK, i'd leave them be as they're a bit awkward to get out if they're stuck

check that you've got the right springs - you'll probably have to wipe them, but there should be two dashes of paint on the top couple of turns (yellow and white for the 172 Cup)

guess there'll be lots of things it could be, but could check the tightness of the lower nut on the upper gearbox mount (under battery) as it can make odd noises if it's loose (was a strange 'twittering' noise on mine) the lower nut is only accessible from the wheel arch, which might tie in...

pack out the rear mount (there are loads of photos on search of what people have done) then slacken the back box clamp and twist the back box anti-clockwise. you should be able to leave it very close to the boot floor without it knocking (just twist it back slightly if it knocks) the back...

bolt-deep cup-manifold-mesh ring-cat-2xwasher-spring-shallow cup-nut hope that makes sense

sorry, i was just wondering how they could be fitted like that with the bar in place. they must be wedged in - just need to take them out and fit them flush at the top (the bar is knocked in afterwards). BTW, you've got the inner pad on the outside in that picture as well - the lug on the...

can't find anything about the 3month thing (must have been misinfomed), but have a look at this instead: http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/faq/faq.htm?id=43

how much room is there between the box and the boot floor? it should be possible to fit it so that there's almost none (can't even get fingers in there). if it's already fitted that high, it's obv. not going any higher