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i guess a few people might be considering this, given that KTEC's grips are becoming available now - just thought i'd share an experience, to save others the bother of my schoolboy error some may already be aware of what's affecting the leather on the rim of the wheel (?) . i thought i'd...

mine's always done this (driver's door only). i've not had a look at it but assume it's the check-strap if the hinges were worn, you'd be able to rock the door up and down whilst it was open

there was another thread about these earlier today. they're an adjustable fuel pressure regulator - if you don't need more fuel pressure, they're pointless

aye. they're an adjustable fuel pressure regulator - had one on my 205; lots of people don't like them. not sure they'd be useful on the Clio (is fuel pressure an issue?)

i paid about £150 to have mine reconditioned locally, and somewhere in the Midlands quoted £125 from memory E450 seems a lot:dapprove:

if they've changed the belt, they'll have removed the top engine mount - maybe they've not aligned as they could have when they put it back together? you can play with it yourself to rule that out without causing any problems - slacken the four bolts that hold the mount to the shell and try...

not necessarily - just have different spring rates/ride height. i couldn't tell you what practical difference there is

very nice! any plans for on-event video?

i think the 182Cup springs are red/white - they're a different length anyway new springs are silly money from Renault; unless you can pick up a s/h set, i'd be tempted by the Eibachs that people mention on here - i think there is more than one Eibach option though (?), so search for opinion

i'm not sure what they'll do if it's so long out of warranty, but worth a call. they had lots of problems with early ones (i'm assuming the later ones are 'fixed' - ?), and were just swapping them without quibble if no joy, just have a poke around inside it - 2minute job - be a shame to write...

there aren't any warranty stickers/seals on it (or there weren't on mine) - providing you don't chew the screws up, they'd never know. they'd probably not be all that bothered if they did i wouldn't have thought it's just a v expensive(!) angle grinder - typical internals suggestion anyway

take the back off of it and check that the brushes are still alive. think there are known problems with the speed switches as well, so could be worth disturbing the wiring to the switch to see if that achieves anything

could be a number of things; TRE or bottom arm balljoint for example. need to diagnose it to be sure (in case of two above, would involve disconnecting the balljoints and checking them for play, unless it's obvious whilst they're still bolted up)

would probably have to compare to be sure there's a problem (not sure what you mean by the 'extra' not being there), but concentrate on the fronts (unless you've also got an obvious problem with the rears), as it's the fronts that do almost all of the work from the sounds of it, guessing it's...

you should only ever need to do it if you've wound the pistons in to replace the pads - should look after itself automatically once the pads are in and the pedal's been used

did you change the pads immediately before doing the cables? you need to pump the footbrake to bring the h/brake auto adjustment ratchet into play in the calipers - then adjust cables some assumptions in there, but could be the prob? doesn't explain why they keep going slack though - may...

i keep reading recommendations about these but haven't noticed that anyone on here has a pair in a Clio (?): http://www.magnummotorsport.co.uk/seatsprofessional.html they're apparently a Recaro SPG copy, but at a fraction of the cost (i think, about £200ea) the 'badge' might not appeal, but...

tbh, they're pretty impractical/uncomfortable on the road - but extremely useful on track. if you track, just get the necessary eyebolts (2 x 7/16, 32mm thread; 1 x M10, 23mm thread) and do away with the seatbelt rail when they're on. you can leave the pretensioner/buckle on, and clip the...

you can but it wouldn't really be safe, as you'd need eyebolts with threaded lengths similar to the Renault bolts. you can get various length 7/16 bolts, but the only M10 i've been able to find is 23mm thread length, which isn't long enough to retain the seatbelt rail i think someone on here...

:) it was just because i carry one - i also thought it was 'interesting' that it contributed getting on for half the weight of the stuff that can easily be removed from the back of the car

only weirdness going on is the outer lap belt securing point (underneath the seatbelt rail), which is M10, not the usual 7/16UNF i got an eyebolt from SouthWestMotorsport, but anywhere that deals with Graystons should be able to order them in?

that'll be you murdering the engine mounts

is he going to end up putting another s/h engine in, and having the belt done as it should have been first time round?!

(cut&paste from another thread) seat base 4.0kg seat back 8.5 iso bar 3.0 turnini&tyre 14.5 tool kit 3.0 boot floor board 2.5 hatch load cover 1.5 (total 37.0) that was from my Cup; guessing the leather/alcantara trimmed seats weigh a bit more

had the on-board-computer been losing it's settings? mine went suddenly after that, but would bump-start failing that, maybe a lead/connection problem? or the alternator

i'll pop round at some point yep, apols for the spam!

mate, are you and the car about for the rest of the week at the mushroom farm? coincidentally, i'm on your round for the rest of the week (first time in ages) - could i pop round for a brew, kick the tyres and stab at the rust with a screwdriver?

GSF or ECP sell lamps, but you'd ideally want Siem or Magnetti Marelli ones (they both use different suppliers and some of the lamps they get in are dodgy quality - try to avoid Denji for example) that's Shine's car (205GTidrivers forum) - it is stunning there's someone running around...

yeah, it looks as though the plastic tube with the butterfly valve in it is missing? so long as its vacuum take-off from the plenum's blocked, should be OK ed. already said

haven't tried the silenced one but have had the straight pipe into the same exhaust as yours and, tbh, the slight gains didn't justify the din for me sure you're aware, but the cat's so effective at silencing as it's not straight-through, whereas the silenced decat is; it's also a pretty small...