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i get why people do it, as i did it with my first car (never, ever again!) - modifying it is actually a part of the ownership experience for people who do this. you part with the car once you're bored with it. it does not end before then the thing is not to repeat the 'mistake' with the next...

that's the problem really - often can't tell they needed doing until you've done them, although the outer ARB bushes can split, which would be a giveaway as said, i think inner ARB bushes are considered 'OK'; they're only visible from beneath the car. the ARB runs along the back of the...

having replaced relatively 'new' OE mounts for the Vibratechnics, i'd agree that there's not a deal of difference in the two that Vibratechnics offer. the OE mounts don't wear at all well though IMO subjective to an extent

yep - top mounts meaning the rubber donut/bearing race at the top of the front strut assembly agree entirely that there's no point in replacing bushes/components that don't require it, but the problem with rubber bushes is that it's very difficult to be sure of their condition/effectiveness...

the ARB bushes are fairly fiddly (and esp. the inners) - can imagine them being frustrating unless you've a little spanner experience with bushes/etc, it's worth sitting down to consider all of the suspension/steering components, then thinking about what you could replace at the front, i'd...

not sure; i've used the pre-mixed Renault Type D coolant (which is green) you can apparently create coagulation problems if you mix different types of coolant. i'd flush the entire system thoroughly if i were using a different coolant type, and follow the concentration recommendation that...

the FSE is an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and, from what little i've read on here, it seems that the Clio doesn't have any need for more fuel pressure they also need setting up using a fuel pressure gauge - usually done as a part of a full rolling road session. you can't just bolt them...

you definitely don't need them to get the struts off the car, or to dismantle the struts, but they might be useful to help shorten the spring whilst you're putting them back together. the damper rods drop slowly and it can be fiddly trying to get the retaining nut back over the new assembly...

total capacity is apparently 6.6L, but you'll not get that much out of it unless you flush the block and the heater matrix

there seem to be a bunch of common problems that lots of people have; not limited to any particular model, just common to the RS Clio 2s engine mounts, leaking dampers, snapped springs, 'loose' top mounts, corroded exhausts, tatty steering wheels, gearbox bother (if you're unlucky), erm...

i like the colour on cars and, aside from the Cup, my main cars have been black since i started driving doesn't bother me, but guess it depends upon how anal you are about keeping them clean

if the genuine parts can't be had for much less than that, that fitted price seems good surprised they're as much as £90, even from an aftermarket supplier though

wondered about this before now as well - does anyone know if there are any Renault airbag wheels that will fit the RS2s? whilst safely retaining the airbag's function? sorry for the slight h/jack, but could be interesting for all

unless any of the other Renault wheels fit and function (??), i don't think there are any aftermarket airbag options (someone may know otherwise) these GRP grips are OK, but they're not as good a fit as the OE rubber ones due to the nature of the material/moulding

erm.. probably not in order, but these'll do 1. Tomb Raider 2. Space Harrier 3. GTA (3D) 4. Ico 5. Beyond Good & Evil

isn't that a novice racer sticker on the back bumper, but no visible cage? Clio sounds busy - dump valve would drive me bonkers:rasp::)

was it originally a 1071? not too clued up about the dates the various 'S' models were introduced, but isn't it an early one? it's a bit special anyway! and is that an olive drab 205 you've got there as well?! questions, questions:D

what's happened to the sill? it looks as though it's split, rather than corroded, as the metal's clean either side of the gash? these are great for removing rust BTW...

as said, it'll just be the camber of the road pulling the n/s wheel, unless it's also noticeable on level ground tracking's adjusted by releasing and then adjusting the track rods on the rack - it's obv. all connected so, unless they're very careful, it'll pull the steering wheel about as...

i'd love one of these - they seem much more mobile than the Elises i've been in. it's great watching some of the guys who run them at sprints - just mucking about, sliding around on their practise runs (obv. not something you could do on a course like that one)

ah, OK. think i looked at that one (didn't realise it was fabbed by Piper tho); the three pre-fabbed stealth systems available at the time were all a fair bit more expensive than something like the Piper you can buy 'off-the-shelf' with the exposed tailpipes

didn't know that. too late for me now, but have you a link, out of interest? :) (stealth backbox, i meant - i know their systems are called stealth)

i'd have had a Piper on mine if they did a stealth - really good exhausts that centre silencer looks tiny though

it might not do it on stands, as there's no load, but worth a go so long as it's not rev related and does rise/fall (when it's doing it) with speed, it's going to related to tyre/wheel, brakes, hub bearing, driveshaft, diff/gearbox hope it's one of the simpler 'options'

is it speed related? possibly wheel bearing/driveshaft or, if v unlucky, diff/gearbox if you can stick it up on stands, try driving the wheels to see if it reproduces the sound whilst you attempt to figure its source (without getting wrapped up in the wheels) ed. brakes or wheel/tyre, if...

isn't there a large rubber o ring? can't rightly recall

^it's worth trying first IMO. if you can't put it up on stands yourself, whip it round to a friendly garage and ask them to raise it on a ramp so that they can check tightness of the clamps that hold the rack to the subframe - check they're as tight as they can sensibly be, see if it sorts it...

not sure if the DCi differs, but slightly loose rack mounting bolts can cause this on the RS cars

just measure the bar. if you haven't got any calipers, wrap tape around the bar, measure its length and figure it out from the circumference - should be accurate enough

if there's a knocking noise and you've found play in a balljoint, i'd do that first, see if it solves the wandering there are a couple of horror stories on here about failed lower steering column U/Js, so it might be worth checking that as well