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is there an adapter plate between the filter and the block, or does it screw straight into the block? (can't recall having noticed on mine)
that, or may be the sealing face isn't true - or the filter was faulty
i had some of those on my mini.
this could be 'good', actually; as manufacturers needn't be obliged to produce tyres that meet the minimum tread for road use?
i don't think they're sensible for use exclusively as road tyres either, but lots of people will want to wear them on road as they travel to and from events/track days
how do rally cars get about on the (public) link sections? is it going to cause them a problem?
i suppose there's already a...
does anyone know what the 'facts/figures' behind the justification for this are? something to do with the minimal tread pattern?
ed. that sounds a bit woolly - i mean, how are they going to draw the distinction between track tyres and road tyres?
brake pads next! ;)
Re: FAO henry
afaik, there are only two uprated options available at the mo - the RenaultSport Gp.N kit (£1K!!), and the Vibratechnics mounts, which are sold through KTEC. the v/t mounts are rubber, just much stiffer. i've not seen the RS mounts and don't know what they're made of (gold?)...
have seen a few advertised as being ABS equipped (the one i bought was as well) - but none of them were, unless there's a very well kept secret out there anyway
i think advertisers sometimes assume they must have been equipped and just add it to the blurb. is it a dealer?
more than likely; there looks to be quite a bit of movement in it as well
it seems to be the dogbone that gives the most trouble.
you've got buffers on the top engine mount, so they'll do part of the job in reducing the movement in that mount
probably best to use a trolley jack under the box, so that you can lower/raise it if it needs encouragement to get the mount off
take the centre nut off first (might need to 'shock' it free with sharp turns on ratchet/t-bar as the rubber mount will want to twist with it); then remove the two...
there's a nut on the other end of that bolt that you need to keep tight - it's easiest to take the mount off and tighten the bolt into it (there are flats on the bolt). you need to take the wheel off to get a spanner onto the nut from the wheelarch - there's not really room to be turning the...
it's not cracked or torn that you can see, so guess it's OK. only other thing you could check is in making sure that the rubber's still properly bonded to the metal ends, but you'd probably have to take it off to do that
there's no interval for it in my service book, and it's not something that you usually change at all frequently
i'd defo change it if it's done 250K Kms though. are you on the original box?
not sure if this helps, but i've had a look at that spring and it's red/white. it's 19cm in length. i noticed it had an extra half a coil (ish) over a 172Cup spring and consequently didn't consider using it (don't remember it being any different in length to the unloaded 172Cup spring though)...
i'd have to check the colour as i'm not 100% - might actually be red/white
not sure what it was taken from originally, as i bought a (mismatched) pair that had been taken off a 172Cup
ed. might help: http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=115657&highlight=spring+colour+codes
don't need to remove the battery or the airbox. you could disconnect the battery if you're worried about disturbing circuits whilst you work, but not really necessary.
just need to take a good look around the casting to make sure you've spotted everything that needs removing. look after the...
the rear seats just pull out and don't really weigh that much anyway
if he goes to town and you get the full £15's worth, it might feel a little better - just sharper acceleration, braking and cornering. it'll obviously be noisier though. make sure you don't break any clips whilst pulling the...
it's in the nearside corner, slightly inboard of the lamp cluster - you can get to it by pulling the carpet away from the end of the plastic moulding that runs the length of the boot slam panel
just a quickie - does anyone know what's earthed by the strap/lead behind the carpet, underneath the nearside rear lamp cluster?
i could fiddle to find out - just wondering if anyone knows
thanks
from recent (similar) experience -
take the top of the dash off:
- pull off the two coloured trim strips and the top of the steering column shroud
- remove the 6 screws now exposed
- remove 3 screws from screen demister channel
- remove plastic screw/clip from either end of dash
- pull dash...
best bet might be Norma/Mikalor clamps, as each clamp has a range of fitment; u-bolt clamps need to be exactly the right size. just measure the o/d of the pipes to find which size you need
it's an 'easy' diy job, although access to the end of the manifold is poor, as you've noticed
should be...
i've the cloth in mine and it's thinning ever so slightly on the right hand bolster (60k), but i'm in and out of the car a lot. the bolster itself is fine; if it's constructed of the same stiff foam material that the rear bench is, can't see it deforming much at all with age
i like them
just to add a slightly different perspective, i renewed all of the mounts and fitted the poly dogbone bushes at 40k, which made a bigger improvement than replacing the two mounts for the Vibratechnics ones, 20k later
vibration/noise isn't half bad imo, esp. when you consider how...