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think the OE dampers are KYB

i don't think i'll be able to port them over, but i've a couple of comedy vids of people through Quarry before the chicanes were put in; might have a look in a bit

seems an odd spot to go off, was he struggling to sort oversteer or something?

drivers side JTEKT 7701474493 £39.26+vat KOYO 7701474493 £39.26+vat SMI 7701474493 £39.26+vat TRW 7701047813 £42.26+vat passenger side JTEKT 7701474492 £39.26+vat KOYO 7701474492 £39.26+vat SMI 7701474492 £39.26+vat TRW 7701047812 £42.26+vat [cut/paste of something Fred posted a little...

it could be the spindle/bolt that runs through the upper gearbox mount - the lower nut works loose

just a trolley jack/piece of wood to take the weight of the engine/box you don't need to support the engine to do the dogbone as it's there to limit forward/backward movement

i'm not familiar with the non-Sport's mounts (are they basically the same?) but even new Sports mounts will allow the engine to be rocked by hand - don't think the movement you've got there is a particular sign believe there's a dogbone on your model - that's probably the first one to look at...

the upper gearbox mount is on a spindle that's threaded both ends - it could be that the lower nut is loose (common problem). it's difficult to check the nut's tightness, as there's next to no room to swing a spanner on it - it's easier to remove the mount and use the flats on the spindle to...

thanks - it was a blown bulb; had some spare ones, luckily

is this a Clio2? i found it easiest to take the top of the dash off and house most of the wiring to the left. it's very easy to remove the top of the dash

sorry; more i've noticed that the clock backlighting's much dimmer than it used to be now it's all back together - and there's a faint 'bloom' to the left-hand-side of the display. it dims further when the sidelights are switched on (as it should). any ideas what i've done here?

you need a good gearbox before you can get away with clutchless changes; probably safer not to bother in a Renault! don't really need to match the revs for up-changes - just ease the lever in; usually need to blip the throttle for down-changes

you can buy them anywhere - supermarkets, service stations, etc

i don't know, but you could gain some sort of idea by measuring the depth of the std basket, lower the window, and then check to see how far behind the basket the glass is aren't you likely to have to mount them proud of the door with beefy speakers anyway?

kerosene's a good, cheap degreaser. or petrol

possibly wheel balance, rack bushes (try tightening the clamps), engine mounts

sounds like the top mounts. assuming the strut's bolted to the hub securely, the only other possible source of movement in the strut assembly is in the damper rod - would probably need to remove strut, strip it down, extend the rod and check it for play to be sure of that. most likely top...

this works now, having swapped the yellow/red in the Alpine loom - it's not perm. live either; i thought it looked as though it'd do that thanks for the advice

hmm.. i thought about swapping the yellow/red leads on the Alpine loom (but didn't try it) - wouldn't that make the unit permanent live? got to pop out now, but may have another play tomorrow - don't want it permanent live, as i'm bound to leave it on and flatten the battery at some point

very helpful - thanks

thanks for that; can i ask - have you used them on a car with the same loom as the 172 Cup, and did they retain the radio's memory? just want to be absolutely sure before mail ordering anything

apart from adjusting the strap on the rear box, the system-box clamp needs to be very tight, to prevent the box from turning in the system pipe and dropping down

struggling a little and wondered if anyone could provide a definitive answer to a couple of Qs i've got an Alpine CDE101RM and have tried the Auotleads (PC99X12/ALP); the remote controls will work, but there's seemingly no permanent live connection, so i'm losing everything as the ign's...

was thinking that you might get chatter between the gears whilst they're not being driven (oil change/additive might quieten that down), but constant chattering doesn't sound right. sorry, no help

i bought the Halfords ones as i couldn't be bothered faffing and felt flush at the time - they're 5-'kin-quid though! would have thought you'd easily get away with improv., as all they do is push in a spring clip either side of the unit 5 quid.. :dead:

gear chatter as you come off the power?

http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_410.htm need to read through it, but looks as though they need to be same construction and aspect ratio

only if they're of different construction iirc - crossply, etc it'll give you the ins/outs on that MoT site

they're such a good-looking car; can't really think of anything else in production that's anywhere near it

i've just been looking at this; might be helpful: http://www.autoleads.co.uk/database.php