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yep

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more info?

it's a 25mm bar on mine but you'd best measure it with calipers or stickytape/ruler to be sure

this is one of the reasons i'm sometimes wary of garages - they loose bits and then 'find' something else to use - had it before with various things, including a substitute bottom arm bolt that had been knocked in as an interference fit - the head of the bolt was miles away from butting up...

interested in this as well. i think you need three (?) leads to get it all working - two for the steering remote (one specific to the Alpine, the other to the car), and another for the display in the dash. just from looking at the cost of it all, it's not cheap - may be £60+? have a look on...

think i've got two or three random ones, none of which go up to Clio hub-nut torque, so will probably have to borrow someone else's if i ever need to do bearings/etc. it's a consideration anyway - you'd want one with a relatively high upper range - likely expensive. i believe they should really...

stick some on, if only for the experience. the expense/wear are the biggest turn-offs imo - but if they're no more expensive than road tyres where you are, you've nothing to lose there - just looking at replacing them again much, much quicker than you would with a road tyre. as far as using...

what 'make' is it? if it's the kind of problem someone might be able to fix, would have thought you'd not have too much bother selling it on (up to 200? just a guess); if the centre box has gone, someone who's interested in cutting it out and replacing it with pipe (for a single box system)...

if you're going to lean on them, there'll be a lot of difference between the 888s and Paradas maintaining some sort of temp in the 888s might not be as big a problem as it would be over here, but - as said - the wear rate will be awful compared with a road tyre. other considerations for road...

for about £100, you're limited to the entry level Alpine 101 - think they RRP at £150, but the going rate online is about £110. it's got a single pre-out and ipod/USB gubbins if you need them. there are a few models above that aren't that much more expensive

they look *so* good in white

i've never experienced this (don't have ABS) but thought that symptoms, as described, were indicative of air in the ABS pump. Renault apparently need to sort that out, as they have an electronic plug-in contraption that remotely opens the valves in the ABS pump to allow the air out whilst...

there will be some sort of gasket/seal between the two pipes - is it an OE exhaust? replacement parts shouldn't be difficult to get hold of if it is may need to cut the bolts off if they're particularly bad. i'd use something like a 3M clean&strip disc to remove the rust from the pipe faces

haven't used these guys, but either GSF/ECP deal with them apparently: http://www.drivelink.com/driveshafts.htm

and a showercap i replaced the bottom hose clamp with a jubilee, for future tinkering

it's most likely to in traffic in hot weather. it's really just used as a marker in the bleeding process, to be sure the t/stat has opened and coolant's flowing through the entire system (the fan won't trigger unless there's flow through the rad, and there won't be if the stat's shut)

lol:) it's basically as Fred's said - remove bottom rad hose and drain coolant - remove t/stat and drain coolant. t/stat is on the engine-end of the top rad hose. the housing's held on by 3 bolts and you'll need a new rubber seal for the stat when you put it back in - flush through the rad...

last time i looked, there was a fascinating thread about some guy who'd 'detailed' his new shoes. they were pretty shiny anyway. seriously, there's loads of info on there - you WILL be spending lots of money before the novelty wears off (if it does)!

it's in the front of the gearbox casing, behind the right-hand-side of the radiator - you'll need to remove the airbox

didn't think it was at all bad when i did mine - can be a pain on some cars, but the Clio seemed to more-or-less bleed itself the generic process described in Haynes is useful, although can't see most garages charging much for it as it's an OK job pretty sure it's also (briefly) described...

they're quite sharp, the Cup's brakes; I'd be much happier (on the public road) if they were ABS-equipped. 'thankfully', i've fitted Redstuffs, and there's no chance of being able to lock them up if i'm taken by surprise:clown: side note, but it's endlessly amusing the way some of you lot go...

still sounds like engine mounts on the face of it. have you checked that the lower nut for the upper gearbox mount is tight? need to remove n/s wheel and get a ring spanner on the nut; remove battery and upper gearbox mount; tighten the exposed spindle into the nut you're holding from underneath

tracking will need doing after the TRE so, unless he's the facility himself (there are some fairly accurate DIY tools), that'll be another £30ish snapped spring or a used timing belt!

current part number is 8200662257, but it superceded an earlier number (same damper. it'll be on search somewhere). part number's in relief at the bottom of the tube ed. hang on - not sure they are all the same after that. type that part number into search; it brings up a few threads (that...

i thought they were all the same at the rear (bar the Trophy) - what are the part numbers on them?

it's a diagonally split system, so the other rear should be pumping at normal effort if you've removed the pads from one when WD'ing, you really need to be winding the piston in/out to lube it up properly. if it's at all sticky, it should be obvious as you begin, and you'll be able to feel the...

possibly a compensator issue? try lubing it to see if that helps and also bleed it - do you get much fluid out of it in comparison with the other side?

that was Cooks (from the reg. number); seems odd they're so much more expensive than the dampers

will it not pump out with the pads removed? think you're in trouble if it won't if it will, try carefully lifting back the rubber boot and WD'ing the piston; pump it out; spray it; wind it in; repeat until it's free and smooth ed. or just wind it in and out manually if it won't pump out