Search results

awwww, you spoilt the surprise

just read back to your original post. I'd say still worth trying another starter, it sounds like that one doesn't have any torque output. It's easy to get one turning when it's under no load, but once it's trying to crank it gets a bit harder. Have you also got a strong full size battery?

yes, it's really easy though

yes, buy a cheap plastic s**t cover off the market

literally anything you want to do, you can do. I don't need to do half of the changes I make to my android devices, it's just fun. I leave modding new mainstream devices alone though personally, and stick with downloadable apps. You're still not heavily restricted by that though.

Have you tried swapping the 3 brown relays round? sometimes all it takes to get them going once they've got a bit sticky is a tap on a hard surface

usually starts at 10am. Charlie prefers to run all the FWD together, then all the RWD and/or 4wd in groups as the rollers have to be moved, but apart from that I can't see a problem with anything running.

wow they must have a lot of bodyshells left over.

that's definitely your problem then. No that's not a long way out. 1.07 is actually lean, indicating an air leak, which having 2 outlets on one pipe effectively is. block one tailpipe and I'll pretty much guarantee it will solve it

you're right near K-tec. Go there and have a before and after power run included.

you'll take note of the Renault Diamond stamped on the left, and the Powergrip stamped on the right. Genuine belt.

Yes next

I'm genuinely quite disappointed. Storage is no issue, everything should have microSD anyway. Just want to ditch this old Medion Piece of crap before the Turion64 processor decides running at red hot all day isn't a fun game anymore. Seems the Surface won't come close to requirements. Sad face.

you can re-code with CLIP

they do, but due to new prices, the market is flooded with well priced stainless systems. I sell loads of Janspeed systems for £358.80 brand new, and they're not far off standard for noise so they're very attractive to sensible or older owners (over 25)

What exhaust system do you have. As it's a 182 you'll probably have to stick a wet rag in the tailpipe that the probe isn't in if you have an aftermarket system

incorrect information Gates are OEM suppliers, all genuine belts say the same thing That belt looks relatively old to me, but probably not the original. I'd hope not anyway as it's overdue for it's 2nd belt on age anyway

47-49Nm if they were done with a torque wrench, may be a little different if they were done with a stretch gauge. Matt once flamed me on here and told me ARP's were impossible to fit correctly without a stretch gauge.

depends how you drive

well they're over £700 for genuine from a main dealer, so you've priced it fairly. However no-one wants one as you can get an aftermarket sytem for under £400. You'll have to wait until someone wants one

I can't see why the timing would have suddenlt slipped after 50k+ since the belt was done, and it's not overdue. It's still worth checking for sure, but there's no logic behind it

182 doing near 40 is normal and easy, you don't have to stress the engine to make progress so it can be driven efficiently. The 1.2 16v in almost every case I've seen struggles to get any better than 35 when driven sensibly.

it's a 182, only ph1 172's have the inertia switch

you've been spun some double bullshit there 1. the stud can be wound in too deep on catcams as the thread goes deeper than standard, this is a mistake made by those who don't know how to do it. 2. if the nut wound off it wasn't tightened properly. no question. I've seen plenty that have had...

I actually said if you try it, it will probably blow up your meter :p

a general engineering rule for bolts is that they need to go into a thread 1.25 times their diameter. There's a lot more thread than that, tiny differences in length will make no odds

mate, I know someone that ran a standard 200sx on there and it made 300bhp. makeitupasyougoalong.com

oh dear. well I guess we'll never know then. Be interesting to see the fuel and ignition maps at some point

they're perfect cams IMO. Just remove your cat for mapping. I'm fairly sure that was a big part of your problem with low power (false AFR reading after the cat)

think so, but it's very cheap to just get a 5ltr