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I've had a few messages from people recently who are getting these made up, I'm wondering if anybody has a contact that can get the metal rings made up? Then we have the whole solution.

480 with 1.7 petrol engine.

Managed to track down the elusive Volvo alternator brackets this week and they were delivered today. I asked that the 3 short bolts and 1 long bolt were included, but ended up with the whole shebang! I'm guessing I need a 75A cup alternator to go with these though?

With the weather being nice yesterday I decided to give the 172 a good run out. I've done a lot of work on it over the winter refreshing and upgrading the suspension, new wheels, new tyres, RS Tuner map, wheel bearings and more so I thought it was about time to get out there and actually drive...

Roads are extremely greasy round here at the minute, even my AD08's struggle, sure its not just that?

Can the FF alternator be used with the Renault 5 alternator bracket or would I need a cup alternator too if removing the PAS and aircon pumps?

Thanks for all the options, certainly gives me some thinking to do. It might be getting hot in my Clio this summer! If by looping the pump it stops the whining and reduces the chances of it seizing up I may go that route. What sort of pipework from the pump to the header are you running?

But I can't use the cup alternator with the aircon pump still there?

Bugger! Not something I really want to take a risk with on my daily. What about removing the PAS pump and tensioner and using the cup alternator setup. I'm guessing from looking at pictures of the cup setup the alternator position is altered to adjust tension?

I'm wondering what the feasibility of this setup will be on a FF. 2 main questions for me. 1. Is there enough contact area with the water pump pulley? 2. Will the automatic tensioner be effective in this position?

I quite like the aircon though! Is there a way of running EPAS and AC?

I'm tempted by this conversion as my pump whines a lot these days and lately the power steering seems intermittent at low revs, I also suspect my rack has some play in it. I've had a quick read through the thread but there is just one thing holding me back at the moment. Most people here have a...

Yes been there a while now, looks nice.

I've never had any problem running no heat shields.

Loosened mine off at 75k and despite looking bad they came out fine. Soaked them in wd40 a few days before.

I was there in my Iceberg 172 but its not a cup.

Anybody know if you can replace the pipes that bridge across the steering rack with braided hoses? They are very stuck and I'd like to just chop them and replace with a length of braided if possible.

Car currently looks like this, replacing wheel bearings, steering rack and bushes and wishbones. There is slight play in the UJ, about 5mm each way.

I pour a little drop of engine oil on to the bearings of mine. Keeps the dirt out and helps keep them free.

Thanks for that I was wondering about the UJ. When unbolting the column from the rack do you do it from under the car or from in the footwell. Just had a quick look but couldn't easily tell due to the rubber boot which I wasn't sure how to remove.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vCeTj5RZHc&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Upon closer inspection I've got about 10 degrees of play either way in the steering wheel. I'll put a video up shortly.

That's the odd bit that puzzles me a bit, there is no slack in the steering wheel, the wheels will start to turn as soon as I turn the steering wheel. It's only when pulling and pushing the tyres it starts to move and clonk or when turning the wheel sharply it gets to a point and then knocks.

That's my fear. With the engine off if I turn the steering wheel sharply to the left or right I get a single knock too. Also over bumps it seems to skip around, especially in the wet. I'm guessing since I tested using the wheels this rules out the possibility of a worn U joint?

Inches. Ball joints are only a few months old, rack was not moving in the bushes at all.

So the situation is this; One front wheel jacked up and the other front on the ground. If I rock the raised wheel at the 3 & 9 position I have about 1"-1.5" of play. I have just put on new track rods and track rod ends. The same thing happens on both sides. There is no play at 6 & 12. Does...

Those were my thoughts, I think Renault spec plus or minus half a degree anyway. Maybe it's just to cover their own backs, or to try and sell me camber bolts! Grips a lot better now anyway

Used this method today and it worked a treat, thanks!

Not really, it's just excess fuel in the engine as the fuel will have kept pumping for a split second when you stalled and you just need to keep cranking to clear that fuel out before it will start.

Cheers for the explanation, I was contemplating getting camber bolts but it seems there is no need!