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I dont think it really makes a lot of difference but you should know what each one means if your planning on changing your oil yourseld because it affects how much you need to put in. It tells you in the Clio owners manual I think but I dont have mine to hand.

Mines blue......not sure exactly what they mean but its something to do with the sort of sump youve got. I think there are two different types of sump, theyre different capacity and ones ally and the others not.

Better safe than sorry I suppose!

Sorry for the confusion BenR, the link Illusion posted leads to a low temp fan switch!

"Used to engage the main cooling fan earlier to remain at a lower optimum operating temperature whilst in traffic" - LOL - I would love BB to explain that one to me!

Replacing the thermostat yourself is a really easy job, doesnt require any specialist equipment or knowledge. I got a genuine Renault one when I changed mine and its fine. I dont know why youd really want a low temp thermostat unless you regularly thrash your car for prolonged periods of time...

Must be a clio thang, dont have a 172 but sheared my gearbox mount pulling out of junction (quickly). With the noise and jolt it made I thought Id left the gearbox in the road behind me!

I dont really trust any of the gauges in my valver. Id take the readings with a pinch of salt, as I very much doubt they are that accurate. Ive no idea about first as Ill always be looking at the revs, just under 60 in 2nd, 90 in 3rd, 110 in 4th, never maxed it in 5th. However, my speedo wobbles...

My rev counter usually reads about 1000rpm at idle, maybe a touch under. It sounds right though, so I expect Jay is right in saying theyre not that accurate.

^^^Ill second that, I just replaced all four of mine for these and have no complaints.

Godwin, Adams_16v has a blue valver with white rims and it looks the nuts in my opinion! Im sure hes posted pictures on here before so PM him. I also think the standard rims look good, but I personally would prefer a mint set of phase 1 turbines - in fact I think Adams_16v are powder coated...

sh*t! Sorry mate, I should have included the word carefully in there somewhere! Thats how Haynes told me to do it!:oops:

Ah right, the Phase 1 mirror glass is retained by a wire clip rather than the locking ring on Phase 2 models. Heres how to release it: 1)Use a thin-bladed screwdriver to probe under the bottom edge of the mirror glass to locate the ends of the wire clip retaining the glass 2)Push one of the...

He could be right, the clutch thrust bearing is the one that slides along the gearbox input shaft so you can release the clutch spring. If its gone I suppose it could rattle - not idea how much it would cost to replace though. Jay?

I had the exact same problem, which I ignored like an idiot. The time for which the light stayed on gradually lengthened over time until one night it stayed on and my car died! It turned out to be a wire on the alternator that had perished - the main feed wire that can be seen at the front of...

1) Prize off the plastic mirror trim panel from the front edge of the door, ( this is inside the car). 2)This should expose some screws (2 if you have electric mirrors). Unscrew these, remove the mirror cover panel and disconnect the wiring plug which is now exposed. 3)There is an additional...

Your heater elements may have gone. I have a phase 1 and the mirrors are heated, although the drivers side one doesnt work - not sure how to fix it!

Oh right, I must have a different handbook to you then? You are right, my motorway temp is about 110 deg, but only if Im going 90+, I thought that was fairly normal? - If Im cruising at about 70 to 80 then it stays around the 100 mark. I used Castrol GTX Magnatec before and it ran rougher...

Ive never had any problems with high oil temp using mobil 1 in the valver, and the clio handbook recommends 15w50 for its multivalve models so thats good enough for me

I really have a hard time understanding people sometimes, had my car keyed the other week, only one panel and luckily not down to the metal but it still looks terrible. Im a student so will have no money to repair this until i get a full time job in the summer. I find it very hard to believe...

What Nick said, every time - the nuts!

no sir

^^^what he said Standard airbox - end of!

Pops on over-run with a decat, but theyre forced pops (i.e. u have to dab the throttle to make it over-fuel slightly) - still sounds good once you learn to to do them at will though! Realise I probably sounded a bit negative in my last post, I should have mentioned that when youre going for...

Yeah Ive got one on these, no pictures but there are some on the K-tec website. Super loud is about right (especially with a decat), loved it when I first got it but now the novelty has worn off, I wish it was a bit quiter! I think it looks good, but Im sure there are those that dont, but...

If you ask them then youll be able to keep your exhaust (provided they dont cut it to get it off). Wouldnt have thought it would take more than half an hour if youre pre-booked

My drivers belt jammed. It turned out that the inertia reel assembly had somehow rotated a bit (its only connected by one bolt in my car). They only release the belt when upright so if its too angled it will jam. You might be lucky if thats your problem, if not then what Jay said.

steve a, polishing them every couple of days sounds like a ball-ache, but they do look superb - if they had a "jealous" emoticon I would be using it now. Cheers for the link RTvalver

Yeah that looks mint, but think you forgot to post the link! Where is it that does that?

Damn - I love the original finish but mine look pooh at the minute. Thats a real shame......