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Yeah you dont tend to find too many people using it, keep me posted with how you find it, if you dont mind? Cheers

Go for it I guess, you have nothing to lose. My experience was a little more grip but a lot more wear.

You can make your tyres overheat easier by using it. I'd be careful using it on 888's if you plan to use them on track. I've used softened 888's on rallies, and they are pretty good, but wear too quickly for my liking.

It seems highly likely that the wrong springs are fitted. If you could measure the thickness of the coil, you could compare it to the specs of the standard Renault springs.

I had bulges appear in a tyre after potholes on a rally once, so I should assume it is similar damage to that. It's the cords in the sidewall having torn, allowing the rubber to bulge outwards. There is a much higher chance that the tyre sidewall will give out, causing a potential blowout.

The spring you have sent the link for is the correct spring by the looks of it. Are the part numbers definitely the same? Small parts shops are notorious for supplying slightly wrong parts. It would seem unlikely that it would be the steering column, maybe the rack could cause such a noise, but...

Ok, well do you have a link to the spring you purchased if you purchased it online? Ideally we can suss out why there is a discrepancy in spring sizes, and go from there. It might well be that you have a completely wrong spring fitted, for example 172 springs in a 1.2. The entire suspension is...

Are you trying to say you have two different sizes of spring on your car? That is definitely not correct.

I honestly have no idea what the problem is tbh, you've listed about 10 different problems, none of which I really understand... Try listing the problems one by one, and I'll try and suss out what's going on.

In my opinion yes. I have a hydraulic press and fit my own bearings, fitted lucas and destroyed them in 2000 miles (although my car is used on road rallies and autosolos etc). The hub nut was undone, but I know I torqued it correctly and loctited it appropriately, so I can only assume there was...

Wheel bearing will indeed be the same. If you are after SKF bearings, the part number is SKF VKBA 3596

I've driven the 220 trophy and it was surprisingly nice to drive, but certainly prefer my 172 cup. Afaik, it is available in other colours, but the frost white (matte white) it comes in is 1600 quid on top of the list price, and you can't clean it with a jet wash (not that I would, just what the...

Ah, my apologies. I had heard that, but the next comment in the thread was someone vehemently denying that this was the case...

The mount tends to make all noises amplified in the cabin. I fitted the ktec race one, and you can hear everything that's going on a lot more clearly. I have crunched a gear once or twice (yes I know, feel the shame) and that makes a much louder noise than before, I was really worried when I did...

Should definitely fit... I had a mishap a while ago, when I got a flat on the front tyre, and got my spare wheel out only to find it was a 14"... Had to swap the rear to the front and put the spare on the rear, complete pain in the ass.

Well the other option is to have as much of it apart as possible and feel for play in the bearings, same procedure as feeling for play in wheel bearings. I think the tensioner is the most likely culprit, so I'd start with that. If it's rattling loud enough to be heard over the engine, there...

Well there's nothing to be lost by giving it a try, I'd use them on mine tbh, unless I noticed a drop in braking performance.

A lot of people on here rate the shaftec ones, although I have yet to try them. I would get the ktec one if he's willing to pay for it. You can't tell about the sliders until you have it apart really. As the problem goes on, it gets exponentially worse if that makes sense, as the carrier flexes...

Ideally, you want to check any pulleys the belt goes over for any wobbling while the engine is running, but rattles like this can be a b**ch to trace, as you can't always see the problem, and the pulleys themselves are hard to get a good look at.

It could be the aux belt tensioner. They are only really designed to last as long as the belt, so if not replaced at the same time, they can go, causing a rattle.

Not meaning to go against people here, but I've never had a problem with scored discs. Sometimes grit gets in the brakes on rallies, and scores the discs, but I've never found it to cause a loss in braking performance at all.

Looking at that picture, it looks like the inside pad is worn right down and is scoring the disc. This is almost certainly due to stuck sliders. A friendly mot tester would pass that though.

I had a nightmare with Parcel 2 Go recently, although I think they have something to do with my hermes... Got a set of NS2R's off a chap on ebay recently, and the P2G tracking number kept reporting that they had failed delivery. I had had no delivery cards left at the house, and had waited in a...

I had the exact same problem on my 172 cup, thought nothing of it really, until I changed my front wheel bearings. I noticed, trying to get the pads back in that the inner pad was worn much more than the outer, and that the slide on carrier was completely seized. By completely seized, I mean I...

My last set of rears were Renault OE and they rusted quite considerably. The current set are standard brembo and the rust is certainly no worse. If you want to scrub the rear brakes and don't brake hard enough to do it, just put the handbrake on lightly for 100 metres or so to clean the discs.

16's do look best in my opinion, although going to 15's gives you a chance to fit higher profile tyres, either semi slicks (unlikely on a daily), or if they are normal tyres, it reduces the road noise to some extent.

Looks really nice, just put the same wheel on mine yesterday. One thing though, you might want to look for some black hex head countersunk bolts, as they would look better than the silver phillips head bolts holding your wheel on at the moment in my opinion.

In terms of side mounts, unless you are going FIA for some competition reason, I would go for cheap ebay ones, or second hand ones if you can get your hands on them. It's not like anything can go wrong with them, and they are a solid bit of steel... IMO the branded ones are overpriced. As far as...

You could try removing the bottom damper bolts and wiggling the damper to see if that is the problem. If they are seized/sticky it should creak or not move when you do this. Fortunately, PMS do sell the replacement bearings.

I got a set of second hand NS2R's in 180 compound and I love them for fast road, although you do have to work if it's cold or wet to keep the heat in them.