New owner 172, brakes don't feel sharp...

[Chiffs]

First post and new to the forum so hello everyone.

Just got today a 53 plate 172 with 57k miles and the brakes feel kind of weak.

It seems you have to push quite hard on the pedal, harder than in my previous cars (Focus ST, Honda Civic Type R, Nissan 200sx, Pulsar GTiR, etc)
The car was MOTed today and passed, don't know the brake readings as this was done before it was delivered. Also have not check the pads yet due to the lovely wet weather. Tomorrows job maybe if dry will be remove the wheel and have a look see. Any tips ladies and gents

Is this a normal trait or something I need to investigate as it does not seem right too me.

 

[Crybert]

Sounds like pads.

Have a check of them. Pads and discs ain't expensive at all and might be worth changing. Also a brake fluid change should help a bit too

 

[STEVE.M]

First post and new to the forum so hello everyone.

Just got today a 53 plate 172 with 57k miles and the brakes feel kind of weak.

It seems you have to push quite hard on the pedal, harder than in my previous cars (Focus ST, Honda Civic Type R, Nissan 200sx, Pulsar GTiR, etc)
The car was MOTed today and passed, don't know the brake readings as this was done before it was delivered. Also have not check the pads yet due to the lovely wet weather. Tomorrows job maybe if dry will be remove the wheel and have a look see. Any tips ladies and gents

Is this a normal trait or something I need to investigate as it does not seem right too me.

First things first,welcome to the club.

Clio brakes are not known for a wooden feel,quite the opposite,so check the servo is working correctly by pressing on the brake pedal ,then start the engine and confirm the pedal is being sucked down.
If not,a leaking vacuum hose is a likely culprit.

 

[Chiffs]

Cheers gents, will have a look see tomorrow and report back

 

[James363]

I had the exact same problem on my 172 cup, thought nothing of it really, until I changed my front wheel bearings. I noticed, trying to get the pads back in that the inner pad was worn much more than the outer, and that the slide on carrier was completely seized. By completely seized, I mean I struggled to turn it with a 24" breaker bar. I got some second hand carriers, replaced the pins and boots and greased them with silicone grease, and the brakes are really responsive now. I couldn't quite believe the difference it made. Obviously it could be pads as previously stated, but if not, definitely give them a check. The carrier should move very freely, by hand. Also, you should only use silicone grease to grease the slider pins, or the grease will cause the boot to deteriorate.

 

[mossyv6]

Just had the same issue on the 182. And as James363 has already described it was down to a totally siezed slider to the point the 13mm head snapped leaving the body of the pin in the bracket.

Replaced the bracket, slider pin and all working good again :smile:

 

[Chiffs]

Think this will be part of the problem. Passed mot day before....... Any mot testers want to comment

 

[172_Tom]

You can look at the MOT testing manual online yourself. From what I can see, corrosion alone is not reason for failure and it would have to be seriously weakened and/or fail the test on the rollers. Looking at the state of that disc you'd think it would make it harder to pass the test on the rollers. What's the other side like, what are the pads like and are the sliders free?

Did you buy it from a trader or private seller? Did the seller MOT it or did you?

 

[James363]

Looking at that picture, it looks like the inside pad is worn right down and is scoring the disc. This is almost certainly due to stuck sliders. A friendly mot tester would pass that though.

 

[Chiffs]

Ok so little update.
Trade seller who uses a garage local to them for work and mots.

Disc has pitting and not contacting the full surface on inside edge, outside has a full contact patch.

Still plenty of meat on the inside and outside pads on the drivers side, (not checked pass side part from looking at disc under car which has been wearing better all across the disc), slider do have some movement but not taken anything apart yet to check fully.

The story thickens.....
Car was moted by the trade sellers local test centre who failed it on a cv boot, (drivers inner cv) boot was replaced with a universal kit which I have found out today has already come of due to hitting the small engine bracket ( believe solution is new driveshaft) due to the fact the cv boot is fitted internal as part of the boot kit. Confirmed by ktec and my local mechanic who did mention you can get the boot kit but labour time would add up to more than the replacement shaft.

Brakes according to my local tester would be an advisory in that state if they passed the brake test.

 

[Chiffs]

Seller has already sent money (yet to arrive) for front brakes £90 for Eurocarparts Bremen discs and pads and agreed to replace the cv boot. Not told them it's a new shaft job yet.

Can anyone let me know if it's possible to do a cv boot or does it need a new drive shaft. Drivers side inner boot is the problem.

 

[LeeRS]

If they are paying, do the shaft.

 

[Chiffs]

Will see what the response is tomorrow when i say its a new shaft job. Don't think they will be too happy.... lol

Are the eurocarparts ones any good? http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/R...11194da909e06271a36dc1ca80d470e5e56e18&000113

or should i just pay the extra for a ktec one http://www.k-tecracing.com/show_product.asp?id=4160&catid=&appid=2&pic=3

 

[James363]

A lot of people on here rate the shaftec ones, although I have yet to try them. I would get the ktec one if he's willing to pay for it. You can't tell about the sliders until you have it apart really. As the problem goes on, it gets exponentially worse if that makes sense, as the carrier flexes until both pads are pressing on the discs. As the inside pad wears more, so the carrier has to flex more, so it is more unlikely that the outer pad will contact the disc. This causes the inside pad to wear faster and faster as time passes. It is also fairly common for garages to force new pads in, so that they dont have to change the carriers if they are selling the car. That could be the reason for both pads appearing to have the same level of wear.