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only setting they can change is the toe (tracking) you wont need camber correction bolts on a 40mm drop, the extra negative camber is good!

lol @ 'when they first came out' - you'd think resistors were new technology, lol

who's RR though? lol

definetly fk coilovers. 60mm drop is fine on springs, but the ride quality will never be as good as the coilovers. I'd stay clear of springs without uprated dampers, ride quality will be poor. I'd also stay clear of 30/35/40mm springs, the drop is usually hardly even noticeable.

when was the fan belt last changed? could be a pulley if its a squeek, fanbelt is more likely to make a squeel.

i was right then :) £75 inc fitting isnt too bad for a wishbone though.

fk's wont be harsh, much like H&R's, the soft helper springs make sure of that. You can get camber bolts btw, but you dont need them with the coilovers.

no bad points. Ride quality problems are overcome with a good damper setup and helper springs. Inside tyre wear is caused by incorrent camber settings, with the fk's you can have it adjusted (they have an elongated bolt hole to allow adjustment)

not a silly question, i couldnt actually tell you! you'll need to measure the opening on both the throttle body and induction kit. I think http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk might do samco and similar - but could be wrong.

i'd try and get a silicon pipe to fit it properly. In the meantime, i'd connect it the way u did before, but without the breather filter, and the MAP sensor plugged and piped back in.

could have swore my mates K&N sat on the throttle body (same engine) theres no rubber/silicon 90degree pipe with the kit?

sorry, was typing my reply as you replied. Read the above post, it'll explain what to do with the breather pipe. Unless you want to leave the filter the way it is and just reconnect the vacuum pipe back onto MAP sensor, and reconnect the wiring. It'll be fine either way.

not got good pictures, but basically what you want to do is... get the original airbox, unclip the black plastic box on it. Disconnect the breather filter you've put on, connect that pipe to the black box, then plug the green plug back into it. Remove both jubilee clips, remove filter...

the u-bend pipe i was talking about, is the plastic one coming from the throttle body to the cone itself. ben, the breather pipe actually comes out of the rocker cover, into the bottom of that plastic pipe. The pipe he's connected to the breather is the vacuum for the MAP sensor.

in that last photo, why's there a breather filter connected to the inlet manifold? also, bad place to have the induction kit in terms of warm air, you'd probably be better just having it attatched directly to the throttle body also, you've disconnected the MAP sensor and vacuum hose (im...

not being cheeky, but if the arb was actually bent, the wishbone would more likely be mangled too, or the subframe for that matter.

because by default the automatic lights will be on - someones obviously turned it off at some point you'll have disconnected the battery, causing it to reset back to default

i had to replace mine after shearing 3 of the 4 bolts in it, think it was around £40 for mine, but add a bearing to that, and getting it pressed in and the price increases.

it wouldnt move..... lol car would cut out, you'll probably get a noise from the engine, your instrument panel will light up, you'll lose brake efficiency, power steering, etc you'd know about it!

if its fresh snow, i'd be shitting it, lol i had a 30mile drive home one night, no gritter had been out, hit a maximum speed of 20mph. 10mph was probably my average, and I still managed to bounce of a kerb, LOL that was a 1.2 8v... wheelspin in 5th gear if you put your foot down slightly

what, you paid £94 for that?!??! Its a known fault, should be done for free.

i use silkolene gearbox oil (75w90) drain plug is underneath, filler plug should be facing towards the front of the car - but you'll need a funnel because of location and size of hole.

cant comment on the creak the steering wheel probably just wasnt centered last time the tracking was done, try getting it done properly again. Foglights (who cares? they're annoying anyway), check the fuse.

cause Renault dealerships charge excessive amounts! Find a local reputable garage to do the work for you (preferably one that specialises in renaults if at all possible) cambelt changes on 172's are expensive, alot of work involved from what i've heard

keeping it under 2000rpm is near impossible to actually drive. 3-4k is more reasonable. Keep in mind that revving it hard before its warmed up can damage internals, it works the other way as said above by someone, in that if you're driving practically on idle, oil pressure will stay low...

sounds like warped discs to me. How old are the current ones?

yip, i went from 14's to 17's, the speedo is 'out' by about 3mph, but in actual fact when compared to the speed shown on the gps, its pretty much spot on now!

should they not click/knock on full lock at low speed? my car doesnt gaitors arent split either, so i atleast know they're not running dry.

oops, sorry, forgot it didnt say down the left anymore '99 (Mk2 Ph1) 1.2 8v

then laugh at how stupidly low your car will be, and regret taking the alloys off, lol just done the same!