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nah, wouldnt be me. I wouldnt be going to any extra hassle i didnt have to, because they dont know what they're doing. Surely with the wheel turned slightly, and the tracking set up, the steering rack sits slightly to one side? (meaning full lock one way will be slightly more than the other...

nah for the wheels to be perfectly tracked, but the steeringwheel to be sitting offset, it cant really be much other than the steeringwheel not being set straight to begin with.

i THINK roamer was hitting around 250bhp, either that or im talking crap... lol as for fitting, not cheap afaik.

doesnt sound like anythings bent - sounds a bit weird as a diagnosis, since you'd notice if anything was bent when the geometries were checked. were the wheels straight when it went on the ramps, or was the wheel turned in order to put the lock on?

actually, i'd say the diff was worth it, clio diffs imho are weak. My mate with an 183bhp glanza v, swears by his, even if it did cause him to hit a kerb at one point, lol.

couldnt tell you to be honest. I'll get it checked when i get a chance. The only way i could explain the wheel now rubbing, is excessive toe in (ie to the point where they fitted the track rod end and did nothing about setting up the tracking). The reason i dont doubt this is, i've been...

mk2 ph1 1.2 8v (on the smaller bearings, in the 52mm hub carrier) - 80k cheers

mine snapped at 74k, my own fault, bent 8 valves. stranded at 4am, on a sliproad off a dual carriageway.... not ideal, lol.

quick question, if you're running a fair bit of toe in, are you likely to go through bearings quicker? and would it be noticeable? I'm thinking yes, but i'm not sure. Reason being, car was getting its MOT done a while back, and they changed a track rod end (even though the tracking wasnt...

springs that are designed to work with the standard setup, wont fit the adjusters. You'll need the springs. Not sure why it'd be rubbing lowered 35mm on 17's though!

should be.

175's? that is weird. Steelies are supposed to have 165/65/14's, alloys i think are supposed to be a 185 width.

thought it was a relatively easy transplant? suspension etc is piss easy, would only be the wiring i was worried about personally.

you should see it adjust. When we had the Rx8, it was noticeable on motorway signs, etc

182's arent exactly faster... and you'd be paying more than £2000 for a trade-in and coilovers. EVOgone, you might get more money back when you sell the 182, but its a false economy with the money you paid for it in the first place. best thing you can do is suspension work, its the best...

the reservoir for the washer fluid is well known to crack and drop its water.

First of all, even if the car was under warranty, it doesnt need to go to a renault dealer for work/service. Change the aux belt when the cambelt is done, kill two birds with one stone. On the 172's, if the aux belt snaps, theres a chance it'll take the cambelt off the pulley. Its also...

1) many people think they're poor in the wet! the new version of them - the t1-rs arent bad judging by my mates golf! 2) dvla and insurance company if its a colour change, if not, then no need to tell anyone.

i thought cups didnt have brake compensators? or headlight levelling for that matter (as they dont have xenons) look for the valve (two brake pipes in, two out) over the rear beam, there shouldnt be one, so no 'spring' to go missing... i'm sure the brake bias is fixed, which contributes to...

the rear shocks arent 'struts' exactly, they're just shock absorbers... cant see a rear strut brace making any difference to be honest. Why would the rear flex enough to warrant a strut brace, when its on a trailing arm (as opposed to independant struts)?

hub spacers? you sure you dont mean new hubs, to change the bolt spacing? the reason the kit wont fit MOST 1.2's is that the 1.2's have a 52mm bolt spacing. Although i'm sure the 1.2 16v is a 58mm bolt spacing.

on 1.2 mk2 ph1's, you hold the trip meter reset button instead. It tells you nothing, except make the needles dance... lol

shame :( should learn how to brake in a 'normal' car though, lol.

its lowered 45mm on a gmax kit? do gmax even do a kit for the 172/182 hubs (pretty much a requirement for fitting the engine!) then theres the issue of just chucking the 'tuned' 182@220 engine in, because the 182 is so easily 'tuned'... lol muzz, I for one, dont modify my car to be...

dont know if the RT hub will fit the RN, instinct tells me it wont though. The right hand bearing will be making noise when turning left due to the weight shifting onto the right hand road wheel.

koni dont make springs.

been said before that 5mm spacers can vastly improve handling they're already the wrong offset though arent they? (cups an ET37 i thought, mk1 172 is 45 or similar)

just depends on the hanger usually.. i'd personally cut it into the bumper a bit anyway, but thats just me.

yes and yes.

you'd buy a second hand hub (new second hand bearing could only last a day for all anyone knows), instead of just replacing the bearing?