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they've all got plastic front wings. the mk2's dont tend to corrode, even with them being around for 7 years, i've yet to see rust on one. Mine is 6 years old and theres no signs of corrosion and believe me, i check, lol. Its either been very poorly treated, or its been owned by someone...

anyone know what colour the blue is on the v6 centre console? smokey, you joking, or is that really the colour? lol

back bumper will go straight on front bumper is a case of bumper, wings, sideskirts, and grille if you're wanting it.

i would, but had to remove all the wiring to do work on the engine. the 4 wires will be two grounds, two lives. Just work out which of the two lives is main beam, and which is dipped beam. You cant really go wrong. The 172 wiring wont help you much to be honest.

when i fitted mine, i used spade connectors to go onto the bulb terminals with rubber insulation round the connectors. Just a case of working out which wire is the dipped beam and which is full beam, then wiring them to the relevant bulb. I didnt re-use the existing ground wires, instead I...

rocker cover? you mean engine cover? (theres a difference, rocker cover is a requirement, engine cover is cosmetic) on the dci, open induction kits are ok so i'm led to believe. It'll give you a bit of noise, but not sure about power increase! (not really that clued up on diesels)

dont thinkso

an extra inch tyre/wheel width, will mean an extra inch track.

nope, dont thinkso no doubt it could be managed by boring the block, and increased the stoke somehow aswell - not cost effective though! For £1200, i'd be saving another £300 and going for a 172 conversion

yes

yeah, when i fitted mine without spigot rings it made the steering shakey, and the car vibrate at motorway speeds.

have the 17's got spigot rings?

5w40 fully synthetic (silkolene) you'll have the D7F engine like me - helps the slight tappet noise, and if you dont have that yet with it being an 05 plate, it should help protect against it.

dont drive without spigot rings! they dont just help you put the wheel on, they hold the wheel centred, using bolts alone result in vibrations (killing steering feel), and eventually, if you're unlucky (like me), your bolts may shear (im sure it was the vibrations that caused it over time)

yes

paint for metal? im confused. I take it you mean normal automotive paint, if so, then it depends on what primer you're using - plastic primer for plastic, metal primer for metal. Simple really.

Lunner pointed out that it doesnt go on the glass... it goes at the top of the door, between the door and the glass - its just a seal. Removing it will explain why your windows are rattling. Look at Lunners first photo, at the top of the door.

you'll need spigot rings. My spigot rings are 60.1 - which is correct.

if you want light steering, buy a punto with a girly button - end of story. Overly light steering isnt a good thing except maybe for parking when you're feeling lazy. A clio's steering is by no means heavy. I can steer with a single palm, into a parking space, or even do a 3 point turn -...

as said, coilovers car will look better and handle better - best of both worlds and beats anything else you could spend the money on imo.

they're the same thing. ph2's use electric power steering, ph1's use hydraulics. How heavy the steering feels, really depends on the car, how the steering is set up, suspension geometries, tyre pressures, etc etc!

cliosport 3?

its been standard on clio's for 7 years now.... nothing new. Its confusion between power steering, and power assisted steering (which are the same thing) thats causing the problem here, lol.

so yes, all mk2's have power steering, or power assisted steering, whatever you want to call it.

eh? LOL, just clicked! think you're getting a bit confused. 'Power steering' and Power assisted steering, are the same thing. Your steering is still mechanical, but assisted by electrics, or hydraulics to make it lighter. If it was entirely controlled by electronics, and your car cut...

it does all the mk2's do.

standard decoder ring not work ok? didnt think i'd need the UCH either - thought it was totally independant of the ECU - shame. and idea's of cost for everything excluding shocks/springs and brakes? just trying to work out how cost effective it'd be, rather than spending money fixing my...

it'd cost TOO much. Cheaper (purely at a guess!) dropping a VAG 1.8T engine in it and tuning that.

ok, if i bought an engine, gearbox, ecu (includes keys), wiring loom, manifold, and driveshafts from a rear ended 172 for a conversion, what else would i need? The car is currently just a 1.2 8v Obviously hub carriers, suspension, brakes etc are needed, but what about on the cooling side...

33 on front, 31 on rear - to help compensate for engine weight.