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I've heard rumours that Fastchip are working on the slow throttle response via their remaps and RSTuner device.

Here in Australia all the chassis dyno figures are usually quoted "at the wheels" - I've noticed it seems to be the total opposite for you guys? My stock 182 Cup got 103kW at the wheels which works out to 138hp. There are too many "fudge factors" involved with converting the measured wheel...

Looks like one is a mail order exchange remap ECU going by the instructions?

Don't forget you get all the diagnostic software and data logging with the RSTuner as well - you won't get that with a remap from someone else.

??? Do you mean if the gains AREN'T great you'll be selling it? BTW doesn't it somehow lock itself to one ECU?

Don't forget the higher rev limit also means you'll be higher up in the rev range when you change up to the next gear (ie. not waiting as long for the revs to hit the "sweet zone")

Yes, if it turns over very quickly without the rythmic loading on the battery then the worst has most likely happened. I've heard that sound twice on other cars.... :eek: It means there's no compression in the cylinders due to bent valves etc.

Could be your TDC sensor? It's normal for the fuel pump not to prime on the first turn to "ON" (I discovered that when helping a friend fault find his hard to start problem, he thought that was the issue but my 182 did the same thing and starts fine.)

I just read that on OzRS Henk. That's a very good gesture on your part and I'm sure Robbo is very happy with that arrangement. He also posted on OzRs details of the power loss when he first discovered it- IIRC there were torque improvements at lower revs when compared to his standard ECU. Over...

:dapprove: That situation is far from resolved. Henk has now turned around and refused to do the deal he agreed upon- because Robbo has since had another company do a remap. See http://www.ozrenaultsport.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6909&highlight= for the full thread. Why that suddenly changes...

So you've got this? The description on their site says it's 2.5" which isn't going to help with the noise situation. Both the muffler/ resonator are straight through designs and not very big which also wouldn't help. Possibly a larger rear muffler with more sound absorbing material in it...

Does the GDI have a centre resonator? If not put one in, the largest (longest) one possible- that should help. A straight through design (eg. Magnaflow or similar) should make next to no difference to the power output but should help with drone.

Be careful with their bulb listings for Clios- I recently ordered off them and the fittment data was wrong. So now I have a set of bulbs that are of no use to me..... :mad:

You can actually put it in via the headunit buttons as well- that's how I normally do it.

Are you aware there is another button to push after the code is entered before the headunit will unlock? I think it's number 6?

http://www.ozrenaultsport.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5262&highlight=fastchip

Sticking some thick foam rubber to the hatch so it holds it in place works. Mine was jumping around even with no speakers in it.

I found in the servicing paperwork for mine that it had that issue fixed under warranty before I bought it.

http://xforce.com.au.tmp.anchor.net.au/cars/view_car/29 you need one of these.

When I removed my acoustic valve I left the actuation solenoid in there and blocked the port that goes to the acoustic valve with a cap. So electrically the ECU should see no difference.

Do a search on www.OzRenaultSport.com , a number of people have fitted them and all rave about the improvement (particularly when combined with the front camber bolts.)

Do you guys get Mongoose over there? The MAP80G with optional microwave motion detector is a great alarm.

Sorry, how does the Clifford work for arming and disarming? If it unlocks your doors then you've basically got an remote boot release because that unlocks at the same time. I've got an aftermarket alarm and it works off the factory key fob, I take it the Clifford doesn't?

Why would you want to do that? If you unlock the doors the boot / hatch unlocks at the same time on my 182. Or doesn't your alarm work off the factory remote?

Ummm... that'd be a Commodore SS ute. ;) If you want the "ultimate" Commodore ute then you'd be looking at a HSV one, skip the SS. The Maloo R8: http://www.hsv.com.au/index_eseries.asp Have you got the problem fixed yet Bryan? I noticed it posted it on OzRenaultSport.

You'll need a LOC (line output convertor). They vary a lot in quality and thus sound quality can suffer. Do a Google for "Dave Navone LOC" and see what you find- he's supposed to make some top notch ones that give excellent quality sound. ;)

My May 05 build 182 has the "Update List".

"Normal" acid curing silicone is VERY bad for oxygen sensors and will poison them. I've heard even using it on your inlet can kill the oxy sensor? Use the proper Oxy Sensor friendly stuff or at the least "non acid curing" type.

I'm trying to avoid using a laptop, but the way I'm going at the moment it sounds like a safer option. :S I checked what happens when first connected to the 182, the screen goes through the following routine: SAE 1850 VPW SAE 1850 PWM CAN OBDII KWP 2000 It seems to hook up on the KWP2000...

Hmmm.... It does sound like mine is possibly faulty? I bought it mail order from Hong Kong and have Emailed them about the Renault problem but haven't got a response. I also sent UIFtech an Email directly today (they make them) but don't hold much hope of getting a response. I might try...