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The extra track width is from the subframe hard points and wheel offset on a cup I think. Cup wishbones (which is what they get called) have more caster, but I don't think that's what you mean? Sure whoever did the geo hasn't fucked the camber up? Could do with some photos really.
Have you found the relay? I you search on here of google it it will show you where to find it. Because of how intermittent it is I think it's the relay. Mine was exactly the same. Worked fine then nothing. Just a click when I tried to start it.
Try the starter motor relay.vvin the under bonnet fuse box. Mine goes through stages of working and then not working. Take it out, check and clean any corrosion off. Tap it agains a hard surface a few times. Sorts mine out for a while usually.
I have a fair few OZ F1s sitting around now. All need re-furbing but quite a few have slight buckles. Can probably be balanced out but just wanted to understand if they can be repaired and an idea of cost.
So anyone know anywhere or used anywhere in the midlands that I can try?
thanks,
Will
I have just had the same thing happen to me.
Bought a set off here, all 7J. Turned out after a few weeks that one was buckled. Bought a replacement and fitted it without really checking it (fairly stupid of me!) as the guy I bought it from said it was standard Renault and I saw the Renault...
I know it's not ideal, I am aware of that. Equally it was cheap enough that it was worth the risk. You say I need to take them apart, I'm okay with doing that, can you buy replacement clips?
As above. Bought a set off eBay. Arrived very well packaged etc. However there is a broken clip. Before i send it back etc. can someone tell me if they are repairable / fixable.
Does the fuel pump prime? I would take all the relays out under the bonnet, give them a quick tap and ensure they are not corroded then try it. Also if it was immobiliser i don't think it would turn over, but just in case there is a procedure to re-set it on here. Its something like, turn key...
where is your actual proof. Not just what you have read on here?
You don't sound like you do. And you seem to have serious anger issues.
I am not questioning Fred's knowledge, however you followed his advise blindly and the twingo rack didn't fit? If he has a good way to mount it and some...
You don't need to be rude. Just because I disagree with you. You sound like a child, I would appreciate it if you refrain from it in the future.
I am right about the mounting point close to the pinion. I imagine it is cast for manufacturing purposes, it will be easier to cast and then machine...
I imagine if you looked at the CAE for the two parts you would be surprised. Plus it is being modified in the areas you think are stronger.
The reason you can't bend the mount on the twingo rack is because the cast alu has different properties than the steal. Also the bolt by the pinion is the...
It looks more substantial as it has to be as its cast alu not steal.
I got a brand new dci rack, which I think is still used in some mk3's as well for 60 quid delivered.
I just don't see why everyone thinks the Twingo Rack is stronger. I think if it was me I would choose the DCi rack over the Twingo Rack anyway, assuming the twingo rack is no faster. Also if you are mod'ing it I would defiantly choose the DCi rack.
But if the twingo rack is faster the. I do...
You know when you see something that looks soooo wrong that it must be a photoshop? Your going to have to be carful, it will probably suck small children in as you drive past!!!
I would not want the responsibility and if you charged for it you could be held liable for any problems I think. The idea is good tho. I would certainly be happy to do a go see for someone, but on the understanding they need to see it themselves, if I think it's okay.
you won't see 700 degs on iron discs for very long periods of time, maybe instentainiously during braking on the disc surface but more like 300 - 400 maximum consistently. I would imagine the wheels rarely see more than 200. 700+ is carbon ceramic territory, but that's another story!! This...
Motorsport applications will be for sevisability and weight reasons. Feel can be sacrificed for these reasons in Motorsport. In road car applications, cost, ease of fitment and in theory CO2 reductions play a part. If steering feel is not important then a car will have ePas, if not now then in...
I completed the conversion last weekend and have been driving the car on road all but one day since:
This is where I stand on the conversion.
I will start with a quick chassis spec of my car so everyone in on the same page:
Standard Engine with all mounts inc dogbone uprated.
Polybush front...
Which cover? Bottom of the cam belt somewhere? It's no further over than the original belt. I will have a check and move it over if required.
Also there is a connector that was connected to the pas hose, it was close to the pump. It is now just sat in the engine "loose!" What did this read...
I think the track rods would go first as was mentioned before, plus I think that people are seeing the twingo rack as being bigger and bulkier so assume stronger. It's cast aluminium so it has to be compared to the steel dci rack.
On a different note this is the location I have chosen for the...
Conversion done. Wasn't too bad.
In summary: I didn't drop the subframe and I didn't remove the dash ( just the cowl ). So far I am very happy with the results. I am going from a knackered hpas rack to a brand new dci rack so in comparison the steering now feels "electric". I have not strung...