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if you are new to mechanical stuff then brakes arer the last thing you shoudl be dicking around with

Use a FRAM filter, expensive at £11 but it has a nut on the top to aid removing it, easier than trying to get your hand in there to undo it by hand, or if you are feeling weak a filter removal tool

Sure oil filter isn't your problem I'm chasing a similar problem, never let oil go over 120 deg, sat at 70 on motorway its at about 120 deg. Has this engine in another car and it was fine, brought this valver and that ran hot oil temps, swapped engines and still same problem, heater matrix was...

Stupid idea

Love chris' bluntness with replies, never fails to make me smile, true scotsman lol

Was it dot 5 that needs bleeding every few months, or dot 5.1?

As chris said failing that a 2nd hand temp sensor Temp sensor is located on the front of the block just on the o/s of the oil filter

Clutch will be juddery as its prolly bedding in, and its possible they got some oil etc on teh friction surfaces. Dropping teh subframe is very unlikley to send the alignment off unless they dropped it from the high lift ramp.....onto the floor.....Its possible, they woudl ahve had to be very...

Ignorance is funny thought Chris

fucked sommet in teh box by the sounds of it

tbh mate a 1.2 isn't a performance engine, nowt is under stress it will run on any old cheap shite Try the total stuff from gsf, £15 a tub, use it in my hybrid atm 5w40

Should ahve held out for some wilwoods, decent dust sealed midilites, none of this antiquated un sealed dynalite shite thats flying around

what about the battery life, or lack of on the nokia?

I'm looking for a new phone, got the W800i, and tbh it does everything i want it to do, apart from teh earpiece speaker and main speaker are shite, but then i spend alot of time in noisy places. Don't want any smart phone stuff, justa decetn camera, decent mp3 player with lots of memory, and...

if you regrind the crank you go for a thcviker shell than std, usually 0.25mm, depending on how bad the damage is, suppliers that supply std size cranks usually offer over sized ones, your machine shop where the work is being done on the crank should have a decent supplier or two

jack one side up and get a mate to sit in it and slowley apply more pressure to teh pdeal till the front wheel won't spin, then apply a tad more, now, holding the pedal in same position adjust bias valve till the rear one will just not spin, then check and adjust again if necessary

leave it running and see if fan kicks in before warning light comes on, if not then fan isn't working

get them from gsf, £30 for a mk1 clio RSi, i can never remember whihc is which tbh

Remove top of slam panal and pull top of rad forwards, and replace it with a FRAM filter for a williams, they have a nut on teh top of them to aid removal Filter is ont eh front of the block, int eh middle

you get to it from the drover's foot well, pull up the rubber boot and you'll see the joint where there is play, will prolly have rubber stuff comming outa it, make sure you dont' get it too hot when welding it or you'll melt the UJ grease

....and you know why they glaze don't you......

WHY??? Yourt column can be welded in the car at a cost of about £10-£20 in all of ten mins, i've had 2 done

try them the other way round and see what happens If they are only stuiff at one point check the crank so signs of wear, and measure diameter around it, also so same with the torqued up journals with the bearings in without the crank in. Will need a micrometer tho

Appologies then

If you are leaving engine in you are gonna make life ALOT harder for yourself, do it on your drive, pick a dry week If you are leaving the engine in i would only change the belt, shoudl really change tensioners, but they are gonna be a c**t with engine in, and water pump, you may as well wait...

Weld the joint at teh bottom undetr hte rubber boot

Make sure teh main bearing caps are on right way round, they will make the crank stiff one way and be ok the other way, also check the crank to beraring clearences. I failed to do this, thought it woudl be ok, and it wore 3 out of the 4 big end bearings, and crank now needs a regrind. Just...

Y0z and fred recommendteh pagid BLUE pad, which is pagid's race pad, the Pagid fast road is their fast road use pad

starter motor doesn't click atall if the solinoid is stuck, nothing happens, if the solinoid is stuck then its not gonna click, even once :P

Not wanting to argue with you edde, but i woudl defo do cambelt and water pump, they are absoloute piss to do