Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
Setting the tensioner - do you set to align the cutaway on the tensioner (driven by the allen key) to the arrow as shown in PHOTO13 lower tension or do you adjust to the cutaway on the spring plate as PHOTO14 which would give higher tension.
I realise that you need to turn over the engine on...
wise move my auxialary belt lost a small peice from the edge got in the cam cover which allowed the cambelt to ride over the crank pulley and take out the cylinderhead. so it goes
Sadly my auxiliary belt at 25K shredded a small peice from the edge which got under the cam cover which lifted the belt over the crank pulley putting the engine out by 18 degrees and therby taking out the valves.
So its cheaper than a garage by a country mile to do it myself.
When Renault...
thanks Fred - REnault (S J Cook) sold me a 0000150901 tool which consists of one new cog, two spacer washers and a nut (as in your pics) for £18.49.
With the nut and two washers for the longer cog already in the 1801 tool I think I know have all the bits I need - Ill set the tool this weekend.
only a slight noise at the pump - thought it would last longer with a refresh of good Elf oil, get rid of any debris from 60K of fun driving thats all. No faults or tightening of the steering or vibrations.
How do you change the fluid in the Power Steering System ie is there a drain? Car is a 2001 Renaultsport Clio 172.
Get a slight noise on full lock, car not moving and an AA mechanic said he fixed the noise with an oil refresh.
Cheers Fred Renault did not supply those bits. The nut explains my second question which is I dont have enough thread on the lower location.
Im speaking to Renault Customer Service (based in Ireland and really nice people) so hopefully will resolve.
Many thanks for all the guidance
Fitting the tool to the car it fouls on the dephaser of the inlet CAM as in photos - I note Fred also has an 1801 tool. As it can only locate on the CAM casing stud and the head cowl over the CAMs I cant see how I can misalign it? So any help here would be great.
cheers
Yes I got a Laser kit for the cam setting and that comes with the pin. Only question I have is on the tension pulley I assume that you turn to align the marks, turn the engine on the exhaust cam 6times and then recheck that it is still aligned as is the timing.
Best illustration is in the...
Laser do a cam setting tool thats fine and there are several on Ebay - the CAM tool OEM part number MOT1509 you need to go to Renault as the only cam tool Laser do is a holding tool for the smaller engines. I am looking for the latter tool and I am also speaking to Renault as I have paid £510...
Pop down the exhaust is either fuel in exhaust due to ignition issue (low risk of engine damage)- or timing way out (risk of engine damage) either way you dont want to keep turning it over.
Get the timing tools out and reset it to the manual - or get the bloke back
anyone close to Bristol willing to loan or hire the tool to lock the cam pulley wheels? Or is there a company that I can hire one from?:)
Tools companies only make a timing holding tool and it wont be strong enough to undo the bolts.
you can install the cams (blued up) and fit a different cover tighten it down and check for mismatch. If you see any then you have a problem as the hydrodynamic pressure build up that the rotating cam journal creates will break down and the cam will rub, overheat and then sieze.
Good idea to...
You shouldnt use due to the line boring but if you blue it up the modern machining should make it pretty close if on a worn say 60K engine - agree it is a risk though (Im going to do it on a 172)
Auxilary belt does a lot of work thats why it wears out by 36K My cam/aux belt was changed out by a main dealer in the 40K's miles now at 65K a 2 inch peice of frayed belt has got between the crank pulley and the cambelt which has caused the belt to ride one tooth and hence destroyed my valves...
Good call - did the compression test nought! Turned over well and sounded OK no odd noises
Head off (once I got an E14 torx on it) and yes indeed all intake valves bent. No marks on exhaust but they look in the picture like they have a slight bend. Belt was still intact but one slipped crank...
After much wet weather (I am doing the job in the street) I have found the root cause - the auxilary belt broke up and a small piece went between the cambelt and crank pulley which allowed the cambelt to ride over the crank pulley - see pic 1 & 3. Pic 2 is the bits pulled out on the valance -...
when you say free floating I understand that the pulleys are all free until the engine is set (TDC tool and cam alignment ) and then you clamp the pulleys to the crankshaft and the camshafts so the pulleys become fixed - sorry for being thick but at some point there needs to be a positive lock...
Valves do flex and are ductile - question is if it jumped a crank tooth cos the auzilliary belt lifted it and now its 18 degrees out is that enough to bend the valve - the hand crank feels the valve but it is not solid ie I believe I could hand crank it through - starter also would do it - I was...
Big thanks for all the help - really understand what to do now!:)
Cambelt and tensioners all good and the belt tension is also OK - however the accessory belt has moved one rib loser to the engine and is looser than I think it should be - its also breaking up and I found a piece of twine...
How can I find the engine number of my car?
Plate by door says CB1C but which series?
CB1C F4R-732 2.0 16V 172 7701473357 CLIO II
CB1C JB5-089 2.0 16V 172 7701706102 CLIO II
Car is Belgium import 2001 - so made in 2000?
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=354553&page=3&highlight=snapped
this is where the £4600 'estimate' was found.
Thanks for the tool advice - how does the tensioner work - do you need a spring gauge?
Im going to remove the cambelt cover and have a look - high costs of getting the work done (£4500 to fix a snapped belt!) plus the fact that I used to work as a fitter has prompted this decison -I will post pics along the way and let the community know how easy or difficult the job turns out...