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Slowly, slowly. Engine now in and subframe modified to clear sump. I was saying to a friend I feel like I have all the edges of the puzzle done now!! Now need to finish dogbones, clean up and paint mounts, complete pipes and lines, driveshafts then wiring. Simples....
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Bit of both. Big spacers on the rear beam and wider lower ball joints on the front plus the wider, lower offset wheels.
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Been a while, have been building a full NA car for improved production racing.
Engine in the missile decided to eat itself (my fault - aux belt went under cam belt and we all know the rest - best one I've seen - 16 valves, 2 pistons and 1 bore scored!!).
So, here is what's next - K24 (test...
Nice one. I can't recall I'm sorry but the are just the size that is in the dephaser maybe M6 fine. I can't recall the heads on the dephaser bolts but I had to grind slots in them to get them out. On my latest car I am going to mount from the other side (ie the engine mount side) - may be able...
After waiting 8 frustrating months for active suspension from Tractive I cancelled the order and went with 5300's from AST - manufactured and delivered in under a month! Should have just gone this way from the start! The 5100's that are currenty on the car will find their way onto another...
Managed to get the car re-tuned with the 4 port solenoid and 2 port actuator. Can now hold 21psi through redline delivering around 460hp at the wheels. That is now officially enough, mainly to avoid it self destructing (or prolonging the time before it does at least!). On track next Friday for...
I think the smaller rolling circumference of a 15 is better for acceleration. Handling, not sure, there's many schools of thought on that!
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Yes, I have a 182 head on a 225 block. Using a 182 timing belt - tensioner needed to be relocated slightly and the tensioner spring slot machined further.
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Here is mine. Replaced all but 1 of the VVT bolts with stainless. Works perfectly although would not want a sensor failure. Next one I'll probably put a boss mounted one so I can replace. Have seen the same but mounted from the engine mount side welded into the cover. Have also seen them on the...
Surely you want to get the most power out if a race engine?! Pretty simple to wire up. Anyway, will run without VVT, but not as well.
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Surely the omex has a switched output based on revs (the one I had on an itb'd car did). Otherwise I guess you could switch it on all the time.
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Create a table of the engineers and their daily rates. Then do a validation in the engineer cells using the engineers column from the table above (that'll give you a drop down of the engineers names to select from). Then in the daily rate column do a vlookup of the selected engineers name from...
Forge - once you have more power you will want more and more and you can then be comfortable that it is built for it!
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Cheers. Only reference I have is that without it and only the front splitter it would get a little light in the rear and now it does not so would seem so. It's a nice bit of kit.
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Looks good. Could not see that in your basket! Make sure it is an3 (looks like it is but does not say).
So a bulkhead fitting through the current holes at the front caliper end. Good idea.
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Don't you need the M10 to an3 male/male at the brake end (your not running right to the caliper right, just to the front hoses and rear beam?).
Re the bias valve that makes sense but what fitting are you actually screwing into each end of the valve?
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You should consider hard lines - flaring and bending is not all that hard but if you go for braided then the part I can't see is how you are connecting to the bias valve.
For the connection back to the brake lines at the ends you will need m10x1 males like the 4 you have for the mc.
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Was getting some fuel surge below 50% last time out - even with an upgraged lift pump and 1.5l surge tank! So, I have upgraded the in tank lift pump to the biggest one I could get - a Walbro 450 which are E85 approved. I also put a 4.5l under car surge tank on. The Walbro 450 is a beast...
In that case as long as the taper is working before it bottoms out you'll probably be ok. I normally use sealant on tapered threads and find they degrade if you remove/refit too many times.
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Unless it is going to seal at the bottom it won't matter how tight it is - hard to tell without seeing it. You could try a washer but the application is not strictly designed for it. You may need to shorten the adaptor to make sure the washer is sandwiched enough (obviously needs to be some...