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Not worth doing mate you need to swap the whole wiring loom, add the internal temp sensor and fan etc.

Not pressing the clutch down enough if anything.

Yeah the PK6 gives a dodgy gearchange in the 1.9 Lagunas aswell :o hahah Change the gear oil might help if its that bad.

Forget any numbers on the coils you have, cylinder 1 is flywheel end.

If you've put a column, pump, belt, new fluid in it already - sounds like your rack might be at fault. Get someone to stick there head under the car whilst you work the steering side to side.

As Geddes said - always check the basics first! Check your fuse aswell. If new bulbs/fuse don't solve it first thing I'd do is check if the block plug on the back of the sidelight is getting 12V and go from there.

Cat can you post a pic of your key/s please when you get a chance? I thought the oldest of the Mk1 V's used the infra red & transponder?

Whats the immobiliser light doing? Did you disconnect the ring decoder (bit round the barrel) when you took the wheel off?

Yeah as Vince said, flat blade screwdriver for the airbox pipe and either a 10mm spanner or a 1/4" 10mm socket on a T20 screwdriver (not 100% needed). Dead easy todo, pull the air intake pipe off, unclip the relevant wiring off the top of the airbox, undo the pressure sensor on the right hand...

Even if it did fit you wouldn't want that or the Kangoo Trekka 4x4 running gear, absoloute shite. F0xys Clio has more off road capability.

Yeah cheap tyres on the rear in the wet isn't cricket, edde will tell you - came round a bend a tad too quick and ended up going broadside for about 100 yds at Nurburgring. Nankang Ditchfinder PE2's

No, no, don't worry about corners, as soon as you hit a dual carriageway its game over, with a tiny puff of smoke.

Take the key apart, CAREFULLY don't loose the chip, and clean it with electrical contact cleaner.

The terminals in the block plugs of the wiring loom going into the MAP sensor used to work loose, crap design of plug, they just push in and out. From what you've described I'd also tighten the terminals in the brake switch, and clean the TDC sensor.

Burp the release arms do move about a bit and feel a bit loose, yeah you can pull that rubber nodder off and have a look in with a penlight although you won't be able to do a lot. Did you replace the cable aswell or just the ratchet mechanism?

... then when you get to the first corner? ;)

Andi put that in the guides section if you haven't already!

They don't need to be removed to replace the cambelt on the 1.2, its not twin cam like the 1.4/1.6/2.0 Get the old one off, clean it up as best you can and fit a new one, have a look after a couple of weeks. Tap it in with a 30/32mm socket and a hammer gently. You've gotta remember its taken X...

Once you test drive a R26 thats usually the point of no return for most people.

You will destroy them getting them out (these come out to let the cam locking tool in), about £10 for a pair, not worth messing about with them.

Make sure theres nothing inside it mate, anything, coin, sweet wrappers, chewing gum etc

Auto express strikes again

Dead easy Clart, remove the T20s at the front of the arch liner, and pull it back slightly, then 2 X 10mm bolts inside each arch liner (at the top going upwards where the wing joins the bumper. Then there is a T20 screw either side underneath where the arch liner is attached to the bumper. 2 X...

Tigger your elements probably burnt out in the mirrors, with a multimeter, wip the mirror glass out (pops off carefully) and check resistance across the terminals, and while your at it check the plug is getting 12v.

Please please please Renault put a 1.5 110 dCi or a 2.0 150 dCi in it.

Does the picture come up on the dash? If they've both gone it points to being a stalk/wiring fault rather than both bulbs. First thing I'd do is see if the block plugs are getting a feed (use a testlight from the market or whatever for less than a fiver if you like or a multimeter) Then go...

Have you got an engine crane? or a winding hoist? As Freds said its an arse todo the oil pump gets in the way aswell with the plastic guard.

Dead easy mate Ben_P and me did a little guide on this thread IIRC. http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=290355&highlight=radiator

Tighten the terminals in the pretensioner block plugs under the seats, or cut & solder them if you want.

Built into the instrument panel I'm pretty sure.